View Full Version : evinrude 4hp pull cord snapped
i have an evinrude 4hp twin cylinder outboard. after second pull today the pull cord came away , presumed snapped from the recoil mechanism.
as bank hols weekend chandlers say can look until wednesday.
is it a fairly simple job to rewind onto mechanism or will i end up with springs and bits flying out all over the place.
kind regards nick
Yes and probably.
But if you do it in a confined space you shouldn't lose anything and you may fix it.
You don't say what year (or model number) this is but the ones I have looked at have the starting mechanism on top of the fly wheel (Larger ones like my 6hp have the a rewind mechanism to one side which engages with a ring gear on the the flywheel via Bendix mechanism, just like the old inertia starters that used to be on cars)
Assuming the former type you should be able to wind on a new cord without dismantling the mechanism itself. You will probably have to wind up the spring and hold it while you fix the cord then allow the thing to wind the cord in. Needs three hands really. You may need a bit of "trial and error " to wind up the right amount of tension on the spring though.
If you release the spring, its like big clock spring, it will need a bit ot dexterity to get it back.
If it is the other type like mine you will find that it is possible to use a knotted rope on to the flywheel just like the old Seagulls as a temporary measure but even those can have a new cord fitted without any dismantling.
Tell me the year and/or the model number (not the serial number) and I will have another look at the diagram and perhaps offer more advice.
the mech is on top of engine.
it has the throttle slider near the top running horizontally with screw holes for slow running and fast running mixture adjustment.
That makes it a 1974 model according to the list I consulted (rather older than I anticipated) but then going to the engine diagrams the 'b' does not appear. Anyway looking at the diagrams of the starting mechanism for 1974 has shown me something I am not familiar with, although not unlike the mechanism on a Flymo of about that vintage.
If you follow this link http://epc.brp.com/default.aspx?brands=ej&lang=E select Evinrude (that's the default any way) then the year, then the hp, then the model number without the 'b' and finally select the rewind starter diagram you will hopefully see an exploded diagram of yours.
Provided the knot is not on the side of the pulley (6) covered by the spring (4) you should be able to fit the new cord without releasing the spring. You will have to wind the spring up by tuning the pulley and hold it while you thread the cord and knot the end (3 hands needed) then let the spring wind the cord onto the pulley. As already stated you may have to experiment a bit to wind the spring up by the right amount. Get it too tight and you may risk breaking the spring but if it is not tight enough it won't rewind the cord properly. The cord length is given as 64"
I hope this helps and that I have correctly ID the engine. Not sure though that your description of the throttle control matches that on the diagram of the engine cover. I was expecting something more like the starter on say 1980 models
i carefully undid all the bolts to remove the top cover and the screw on top and when i lifted the lid off the whole spring unwoumd..
spent 20 mins rewinding and put in pull cord and put all back together. pull the cord and geuss what...it SNAPPED..
my fault for being tight and using old cord..will go to chandlers and get new one in morning.
thanks for help..now i know what to do it wont take long to wind in coil and put on new cord
I refer to my earlier statement.
It's easy really, but careful about trapping your fingers. I do it every year (repair the starter cord) on my leaf blower.
I have an evinrude 4hp outboard but the pull cord starter is on the side and I have a manual for small evinrude,s from 1956 to 1972 which also show a rewind starer on top and side like mine. this is just outside Vic's indicated dates.
If you PM me with your email address I can scan the pages I think cover your motor starter with cord replacement instructions
looking further the manual covers top cover, swing arm (mine), side mounted pinion gear and flywheel mounted with three pawl design and single pawl design
15 pages covers all types so if we can identify which one could reduce email size
The manual I got is by Clymer and I got it from westmarine in the USA there web site is www.westmarine.com (http://www.westmarine.com)
[ QUOTE ]
.. will go to chandlers and get new one in morning.
[/ QUOTE ] Or garden centre or many hardware shops for lawn-mower starter cord.
I thought so, it is like the later models. I wonder why the number you quoted produced an earler date. Has there been a bit of canibalising at some time or another perhaps.
As you now know you should not have undone the screw on the top!
luckily i now know how to do it. the mechanism is bolted on the underside of the top cover..
i'll go to the lwan mower place down the road tommorow..
I have found that the cords often break when an engine becomes hard to start because they are doing more work. Was your engine starting OK apart from the cord breaking?
it was starting really well when cold but its difficult to start when its really hot. i think its running a bit lean by looking at the plugs
i went to chandlers this morning expecting to pay loads for pull cord and was charged 60p for 2mtrs.
all working now and retrcting properly..
thanks for all the advice
[ QUOTE ]
i think its running a bit lean by looking at the plugs
[/ QUOTE ] What do the plugs look like? I don't think I have ever seen plugs in a 2 stroke engine that were anything other than black and slightly oily!
You have both slow and fast running adjustment screws so you should be able to adjust it, although they will interact with each other so it takes a while to get both right. It might be as well to clean the carb first though, paying particular attention to the jets, especially if you have tended to leave fuel in it rather than run it empty after use. Be careful taking it apart that you do not lose any little bits! The diagrams on the BRP website are quite useful in identifying it all and getting it back together properly. You'll need to ID the model more accurately than I did though.
If 2 strokes are running weak they often misfire and spit back through the carb as well as lack power. If they are too rich they tend to 4 stroke. In fact even when set up correctly some tend to 4 stroke when only lightly loaded.
the plugs were new a few weeks ago and now are white in colour with no oily film on them.
the engine pushes really well and starts well but when really hot it wont start till i put the throttle lever on max and pull, but when i do that on the water i have to make sure im sitting properly or i'll take a dive off the back.
i meausred the old pull cord and it was only 40 ins long and new one is 66ins but i dont know whether that makes a difference to starting.
I would be suspicious of white non oily deposits on a 2 stroke plug. Are you sure they are the correct grade and are you using the correct fuel oil mix?
I guess the length of the starter cord depends on the type of starter but I think 64 " or thereabouts is the length in the parts list for the type you seem to have. You can't put on more than the pulley will hold but the longer it is the greater the risk that you will slosh someone on the nose! (It does happen) If it is too short then starting may become difficult. I'd make it as long as the pulley will hold.
I dont know what to suggest about the poor starting when hot. Does it help if you choke it a bit. If so then it lends some weight to your suspicion that it is running weak. The white non oily plugs would suggest that it is seriously weak and as a result short of oil, maybe it does need a carb clean.
its been running on 50-1 but i suppose i could mix it a 32-1 for a while to see if that helps.
i think i'll try it on the boat on saturday and turn the mixture screw one mm at a time to see if that helps.
why does starting on full throttle when hot work. is it fuel starvation.
ive tried using varying amounts of choke to start it when hot and it doesnt seem to make any difference. like i say it starts on full throttle but not on anty thing less but when cold it starts fine with a small amount of choke
I would have expected 50:1 to be Ok but one really needs to check with an instructiom manual. I was afraid you might be running it on 100:1. As far back as '74 it might have been a more oily mix than 50:1
It's odd that it needs only a small amount of choke when cold.
It's not tending to flood I suppose but that would not be in line with almost everything else you describe anyway. Personally I'd tinker with the mixture adjustments but it would be a good idea to record the present settings in some way first so that you can return to them. I'm wondering if the slow running jet is blocked. It would explain why it will start on a wide throttle opening, but if it were why does it start easily when cold? If I could not get it working properly after a bit of tinkering I think I would be looking at cleaning the carb, at least the jets and poking a bit of soft (copper) wire through them. I loaned an old Volvo Penta outboard to a friend a couple of years ago and some how that got some water into the carb and needed the slow running jet cleaning before it would run properly again.
My 6hp starts on full choke and part throttle when cold but I have to get the choke back in quickly and usually turn the mixture setting to fully rich while it warms up.
I seldom start it hot but I guess it needs a bit of choke or at least mixture set to the rich setting unless it really is still at running temperature.
The iBoats forum is a good place to ask for advice on outboards. http://forums.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum&f=28 will take you to the Evinrude page but always quote the model number with any query. You will certainly be able to confirm the fuel/oil mixture there.
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