ARCMarineEveryman
regular
Reged: 06/12/2005
Posts: 440
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Has anybody used boiled linseed oil as an alternative to varnish etc? Michael Emmett uses it on his Black Rose of Maldon, so thought I would try on some not so important areas, but how do you use it? Seems like Deks Olje 1, been applying lots and its been soaking in like mad, and anybody know of long term tests as to whether it lifts, gets water underneath etc.
regards
IanC
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Tisme
regular
Reged: 23/11/2005
Posts: 1895
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I played around with it years ago. Soaks in well. Has appalling durability.
Best kept for Cricket bats rather than boats.
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Cuchilo
regular
Reged: 19/04/2003
Posts: 4670
Loc: London
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Raw linseed oil is better . I swear by it for all my solid timber joinery . When it starts to look dull just a light rub down and re coat . If you fill the timbers fibres with the stuff nothing else can penetrate it .
I should add that this is for joinery such as windows and doors etc not a working boat such as decks and grabrails .
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Dont come running to me if you fall over and break your leg .
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Old_Salt
regular
Reged: 08/12/2005
Posts: 2493
Loc: Cheshire, England.
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Quote:
Has anybody used boiled linseed oil as an alternative to varnish etc? Michael Emmett uses it on his Black Rose of Maldon, so thought I would try on some not so important areas, but how do you use it? Seems like Deks Olje 1, been applying lots and its been soaking in like mad, and anybody know of long term tests as to whether it lifts, gets water underneath etc.
regards
IanC
I have used it (Double Boiled) for the last 35 years it is the best thing for any all wood Boat (Not for modern tupper wear a lot of the wood on them is only vernier anyway. I can say that on here but would not dare on any other forum) it will soak in and then protect it from any water ingress. Apply it in many light coats with a brush or wipe on with a rag ( but take care with disposing of any rags that are soaked in it it is apparently known to spontaneously combust if left. It has never happened to me though) As I said it is the best thing for wood it soaks in and protects and keeps the wood supple. All though it will give a nice finish it is only short lived as a top surface and will require frequent re coating. Water will not lift it unless you have put on so much it has gone to a thick skin which is NOT what you want it should not form a skin. Once it has thoroughly soaked in and dried You can Paint and Varnish over it as you wish.
Hope this helps you.
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I Support. www.sailroom.co.uk
http://www.vhcengineering.com/page6.htm
Old_Salt
1.5ml sea miles and I can learn some thing new every day.
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ARCMarineEveryman
regular
Reged: 06/12/2005
Posts: 440
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If you varnish over surely this will lift, or not?
PS, thanks for all the replies.
IanC
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Cuchilo
regular
Reged: 19/04/2003
Posts: 4670
Loc: London
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Ive not varnished over an oiled surface but i spose if you let it soak in enough its possible .
The point of oiling is to fill the timbers cells with oil so water wont penetrate , if you let it soak in enough the top face needs oiling again as the oil has soaked in further . If you then varnish the surface i spose this will seal in the oil .
Sealing in the oil may not be a good thing as oiling the timber allows it to breath and varnishing timber doesnt .
Am i wrong in thinking that all oil is Linseed based and has been used for many many years ? why boil it ? Add something and re name it ?
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Dont come running to me if you fall over and break your leg .
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BrendanS
regular
Reged: 11/06/2002
Posts: 38175
Loc: Me: Wilts. Boat: Lymington
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http://72.14.203.104/search?q=cache:EK7D...t=clnk&cd=4
Raw Linseed Oil
"Raw" linseed oil is just that - linseed oil mercilessly squeezed from flax seed and packaged with no additional additives or preservatives. Raw linseed oil dries very slowly, taking weeks to fully cure. You should limit its use to the insides of wood gutters, chopping blocks, sawhorses, and other items exposed to the elements where drying time is not a consideration.
Slow drying is a mixed blessing. For oil-based paints and varnishes, slow drying is a benefit, since this allows the paint to "level" itself, giving a smoother finish with fewer brush marks. The best looking paint jobs are invariably oil paint jobs, without question. However, when used as a wood preservative for items that are handled or walked on, such as tool handles, furniture, or wood decks, long drying times are undesirable. 100% Pure, this slow drying oil has multiple uses. It helps wood retain its natural moisture, aids in water repellency, retards cracking, checking and shrinking.
Boiled Linseed Oil
"Boiled" linseed oil, though, is not boiled. The actual boiling of some oils changes their drying characteristics. With linseed oil, though, it is the addition of certain solvents that causes linseed oil to dry more quickly, acting as if it were boiled. This makes it a better product for preserving tool handles, decks, and furniture. I suppose they should have named it "sort-of-boiled linseed oil", or "kinda-like-boiled-but-not-really-boiled linseed oil". Boiled Linseed Oil is used as a natural wood finish and preservative, either alone or with other oils and solvents. Mixed with oil based paints and varnishes, it increases gloss and improves leveling and durability. A mixture of 2 parts boiled linseed oil to one part turpentine creates a semi-gloss wood polish for furniture. Can also be mixed with mineral spirits.
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See http://www.frappr.com/ybw to add yourself to the forum map
and as everyone else is doing it
www.plaintalkconsulting.co.uk
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stephenh
regular
Reged: 06/01/2002
Posts: 864
Loc: London UK
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'Boiled linseed oil is not boiled linseed oil ' exactly - it is made by blowing very hot air through the raw oil and as BS says this alters the drying characteristics.
Old fashioned varnishes ( not polyurathane etc.) are ( were?) based on linseed oil so there is no problem with overcoating.
Years ago we used to thin varnish with linseed oil to make it flow better.
A coat of boiled oil sinks into the wood , fills the pores, and will then skin over as oxidation etc. kick in.
The secret to its use is to apply a coat , leave for 10 / 15 mins. then wipe the surplus off.
This ensures that you do not get a skin that is on the surface of the wood.
A surface skin prevents the underlying oil from hardening, a weak layer is present and any subsequent coats will lift.
Soooo - little and often..........
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svhannah
regular
Reged: 21/01/2005
Posts: 80
Loc: Cruising
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This may be of interest.
http://www.puuvene.net/phuhta/artikkelit/linseed.html
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Seanick
regular
Reged: 13/01/2006
Posts: 200
Loc: West Sussex
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More use inside than out......high maintenance, low performance, goes black in UV light. So many better products around. Reserved for those with little else to do. Er, I do use it here and there though. the above still applies !
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