Ridder
new user
Reged: 02/06/2007
Posts: 4
Loc: Zeeland
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Hello all,
I like to remove the antifouling of a boat. I think it are several layers because it's very thick. Sanding does not work and with the hot air gun it goes to slow. (a realy thick layer. The second on top of the first. etc...))
May I use a chemical paint stripper like Decapan for example? I ask it first because I don't know if it damage the wood. (it's pitch pine)
Advice please. 
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Peterduck
regular
Reged: 10/04/2002
Posts: 1026
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
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There are basically two kinds of antifouling paint. One is soft and relatively easily removed by using a hand scraper. This is a horrible job, as the paint goes everywhere; in your hair, down your neck, the lot! The other is hard racing antifouling, used on speed boats and racing yachts. This should be sanded until smooth and then painted over. The 3M company produce very large discs of a very coarse version of their 'Scotchbrite' scouring material which, I am told, is brilliant at removing antifouling when powered by an electric drill.
Peter.
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meldrum
regular
Reged: 01/05/2008
Posts: 81
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Im afraid that the best way to remove the paint is old fashioned elbow grease and a good scraper (not too sharp) I had the same problem when I bought my boat 10 years of anti foul without a scrape off. But dont worry it seems like a lot of work but 4 or 5 hours of determination should see it off. Thereafter its worth rescraping after every 2 to 3 years. dont forget to wet the anti foul regularly whilst scraping and use a mask and eye protection.
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Les_W
regular
Reged: 06/07/2007
Posts: 112
Loc: North Herts, boat in Essex
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The guy at the boatyard said burn it off.
Most posters on this forum said don't burn it off because of the fumes etc.; scrape.
When I contacted the 3M service people they recommended the scotchbrite disc that Peter mentioned. Just try and find a stockist! I spent hours online. Several list it, but none have it in stock. OK to use outdoors, but the dust, when under cover, is a serious problem; it's impossible to set up an extraction system as far as I can see.
3M also recommended a very good face mask and filter. Now this I did get and it was superb because in the end I did burn it off using propane and a brilliant tungsten carbide bladed scraper (from Screwfix - Harris I think) and the mask prevented all the fumes and dust getting in my lungs.
My boat is also Pitch pine. It took a little while to get the heat and speed right but in the end it was a simple, though very boring, messy task; 25 foot hull about 3 full days! There were many layers ranging from flaking to very sound.
At least when burning/scraping you can sweep it all up and bag it afterwards.
Edited by Les_W (08/06/2008 00:24)
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Englander
regular
Reged: 07/09/2001
Posts: 15310
Loc: Barcelona/Bollyolics
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Have you considered having it blasted off, with the farrow system or bicarb of soda, or even ice? Wont damage the wood or you! Might codt a bob or two, but very good.
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Ridder
new user
Reged: 02/06/2007
Posts: 4
Loc: Zeeland
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Englander, tell me more about that 'blasting off'
I never heard of it.
And the price? 'Might codt a bob or two' ????? I don't understand that, I'm not English.
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Englander
regular
Reged: 07/09/2001
Posts: 15310
Loc: Barcelona/Bollyolics
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Sorry, "might cost a bob or two" means might be a little expensive. But not when you consider how long it's going to take you!
Wet slurry blasting has been around for a few years, it will remove the paint, but not damage the substrate (wood). I dont know whats available in Holland, but should be available there. Try googling "farrow system" might turn up something, otherwise try some of the yards around you and see if they know about it. Certainly available all over UK and some in spain, italy, greece, turkey.
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Casey
regular
Reged: 16/01/2003
Posts: 280
Loc: New Forest, Hampshire, England
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I had clinker built Kala Sona (27ft 5ins long; 8ft 3ins beam; draft 3ft6ins/5ft 6ins.) blasted off below the water line about six years ago and it cost £300. This was using the Farrow System by a professional operator who has since gone out of business. The job took about three hours.
I was very satisfied with the job as all it needed was a light sand off and was then ready for painting. I used the Blakes system and it has been very good ever since.
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Kala Sona has been sold and is back in the Deben.
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LittleShip
regular
Reged: 21/07/2003
Posts: 2800
Loc: In the water .... most of the ...
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Get yourself one of These?
I did my hull back to wood in one weekend.
Tom
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I wish I'd been born rich instead of good looking ?
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trouville
regular
Reged: 10/06/2004
Posts: 2847
Loc: crusing with an Arpège
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Its hard work!Scrap & use a heat gun standing upwind!
Sanding with or without scotchbright will cost a fortune in paper youll damage the hull if you use a rotary sander or band sander not to mention your armes will acke after 15 minuets!And fall off after an hour,sanders are heavy.
Ive done a 40 footer its just a question of good music a simple wine with cork then heat scrape heat scrape heat scrape stop take a drink then heat scrape etc
A GOOD heat guns essential the best arnt made anymore??Bosh do a VERY expensive one with a temp gauge!!variable heat but it puts out enough hot air to work quickly the model below dosent!!(i know cos ive got one!!It was on sale and half the price of the good one)
If youve tried and cant remove the AF "fast enough"which no one will then pay someone to do it for you.For a job like that on say a 30 foot sail boat with long keil might cost about 450€ inc putting your undercoat and AF on.
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liveaboard
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