Yes, Mal, gold is very soft, and the coating very thin, but why do you think that it needs buffing? The whole point of this exercise is to remove the need for constant attention. Where the gold is deposited depends on the placement of the anode and the workpiece [or cathode]. The gold will preferentially deposit on the surfaces which the anode can "see" [ie, are in line-of-sight of the anode. Frequently the inside of circular items may miss out completely if the anode is outside the workpiece. For the object to be completely covered may require several treatments with the two pieces in different relative positions. If an item is to receive wear, such as a cleat, then the gold would wear off quickly, but by the same token, verdigris would only form in those patches during periods of non-use. While gold may be appropriate for an open clinker dinghy, [which is where this story started] it may have to much more judiciously used on a cruising yacht. I would suggest trying it on some minor component first to evaluate its effectiveness before going ahead with wholesale treatment of everything on the boat.
Peter.