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Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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I am trying to renovate an old SL Hyspeed manual windlass. It is working in that the lever operates to turn the gypsy OK, but the clutch nut does not seem to turn to disengage the windlass as the manual instructions say it should, even with the use of the long handle. I suspect it has simply seized- but first would like to confirm that the clutch nut should turn anti- clockwise as you look at it to undo/disengage the gypsy?
If so, I assume the windlass will then have to be jammed in some way to apply any anti-clockwise force to the clutch nut, as this is the way the gypsy turns anyway (pawl insufficient)? I have tried WD40 and freeing oil so far, but have not tried real brute force yet in case I am going about things the wrong way (not unusual)!
Any other suggestions of things to try/use to degunge/ free the clutch nut? Once this is off, will the gypsy, clutch cones etc simply then pull out of the case if I undo the screw on the opposite side of the windlass (no drum fitted)? Does it reassemble readily? I would like to take it apart to repaint the case- using something like radiator paint or Hammerite, which I assume would be suitable?
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ianabc
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(regular)
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11/04/2008 01:03
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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With our Simpson Lawrence Sea Tiger 555,
I use a length of very strong rope to tie off the gypsy so that I can use the lever to undo the clutch.
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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I've got an exploded view of the S-L Hyspeed 510, if it is of any use to you. If so, send me a PM with your email address.
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chas
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(regular)
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11/04/2008 09:41
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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Picture here - http://www.slspares.co.uk/Hyspeed%20510.pdf (sorry can't do links!). I had to refit a totally seized one of these a few years ago. My problem was that all the bearings, bushes etc were tufnol which seems to expand. I had to get a new set from, I think, Lemar. getting the old ones out was a pigging awful job.
Incidentally, if you need new chain, don't spend £30 plus with these people. halfords do the same for about a fiver!
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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Thanks for the replies- I have the original manual with the relevant diagram, I was trying to link the "theory " of this with the practicality of the actual used kit! The manual simply refers to putting the lever in the clutch nut and moving it aft to release it, but of course it doesnt when you do, the whole gypsy moves!- so wanted to be sure it was seized, not me getting it wrong! It looks as if I will need to jam the gypsy & then try that brute force after some more penetrating oil, tho I might also try heat- eg boiling water (windlass is off the boat). The manual doesnt give any info re disassembly, but I guess it will follow naturally if I can get the clutch nut off. I think the internal chains are OK as the windlass itself works fine- & I have replaced the oil & no leaks so seals etc look alright. Its just that bl88dy clutch! 
Rob
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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You are right the in way you assume it should work - turning the lever counter clockwise as you suggest will free the gypsy. One way of stopping the gypsy from turning is by using a chain secured at one end.
Disassembly is fairly obvious - but I found it necessary to use a three-leg puller to get the gypsies off the spindle
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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Thanks for the confirmation& tip. I will also try & organise a puller in case it is required, assuming I get past stage 1!
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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There should be a pawl you flip over to jam the gipsy (castellated bit on inner rim.) then lever anticlockwise as you correctly guessed. It's bronze on bronze I think, so it should move. a hot air paintstripper and a heavy brass hammer may frighten it into submission.
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tmsc
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(new user)
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13/05/2008 11:41
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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Can anyone tell me what size bicycle chain the hyspeed uses. Thanks,
Lee
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Damo
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(regular)
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13/05/2008 22:09
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Re: Manual Windlass Refurbishment
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I tried to dismantle mine last year because the chain was jumping on the sprockets, when the anchor chain was under heavy load. The problem is that the shaft is seized onto the rope drum, so I couldn't withdraw it, although I have never had a problem getting the clutch cone and gypsy off. (I did manage to fiddle the sprockets around 180deg so the least worn ones could engage the chain.)
Don't you have a pawl to stop the gypsy turning? I reckon you can lean on the handle as hard as you like - you will break first  The clutch cone is tufnol on mine, so I wouldn't recommend too much heat.
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