monkey_trousers
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Reged: 02/01/2008
Posts: 54
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ok, bad pun, and forgive my numptiness, but every wooden boat I've owned previous you could almost pick up and carry by comparison!
this weekends task is going to be to attack the caulking on the dodgy seams above the water line, but there's another bit I'm wondering how best to address
either side of the stem, has opened up a bit, nothing leaky, but there are visible cracks in whatever was sealing it previously, so thought it might be worth raking that out and redoing as well...
so the question is what with?? Putty again?? some modern synthetic alien slime or what??
for what its worth the boat is a big old fifie - 45' (and 70 this year!) so basically we're talking about a is big old fishing boat
-------------------- Restoring an old MFV Motor Fifie
http://bf494.co.uk
Edited by monkey_trousers (15/05/2008 22:44)
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Peterduck
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Reged: 10/04/2002
Posts: 996
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
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It sounds to me like the beginning of plank shrinkage. Do you have her out of the water, or has Britain been experiencing some sunshine lately? If it is, then it could get worse before it gets better. 'twould be better to wait a while to see if the cracks get any wider before re-stopping the seams. How good are the hood-end fastenings? Are they holding well? When you do get to re-do the stopping, work some extra linseed oil into the putty. It will soften it, and if you get enough in, it will become very sticky and easy to get deep into any seam, all of which is desirable. Peter.
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monkey_trousers
regular
Reged: 02/01/2008
Posts: 54
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I think the problem lies in the fact she's been sat in the canal at inverness for 2 or 3 years and has hardly moved, the other seams we lost on the way round ratrray head have tightened up a lot with the drenching she got
I think though, that the shrinkage is a good diagnosis, the crack is fairly uniform down the stem, maybe 5mm maximum, there are one or 2 fastenings that might need attention later this year but appear sound for now. I was hoping not to haul her out till after summer is over (which in the UK might be next week!), but wanted to make good as much as I can in the interim...
so putty it is then....thanks for you help again though,
this is her by the way: http://bf494.co.uk/media/blogs/a/img00610.jpg
long term plan is to restore her back to her original self, which was a this: http://bf494.co.uk/media/blogs/a/old2.jpg
-------------------- Restoring an old MFV Motor Fifie
http://bf494.co.uk
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Seagreen
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Reged: 30/07/2005
Posts: 1276
Loc: ked myself in the locker again...
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I've just had to chase this up. Seams are stopped with a mix of putty, some Red Lead (white lead for topsides but modern paint is a lot better than old paimnt systems so you can get away with red lead. Here are the recipes:
Whiting putty shall consist of a mixture of whiting and linseed oil and shall contain not less than 12•5 per cent. by weight of linseed oil. Any colouring matter used, together with any impurities in the whiting, shall not exceed 5 per cent. by weight of the whiting. The above is ordinary glazing putty
White lead putty shall consist of a mixture of whiting, white lead and linseed oil. The content of white lead shall be not less than 8 per cent. and not more than 12 per cent. by weight of the whiting. The putty shall contain not less than 11 per cent by weight of linseed oil. The topsides putty we used to make was at least 20% white lead + a dollop of grease
Red lead putty shall consist of a mixture of whiting, red lead and linseed oil. The content of red lead shall be not less than 3 per cent. and not more than 5 per cent. by weight of the whiting. The putty shall contain not less than 12•5 per cent. by weight of linseed oil.
Red lead powder available in tubs via Traditional boat chandlers. Whiting is the ground chalk, so a tubs or ready-mixed putty from a DIY store just needs red lead powder and a bit of grease or linseed oil to make it flow and stick better. Hope this helps.
-------------------- "Let Joy be unconfined!"
I'll get her chastity belt keys, then..
http://www.linesquall.co.uk
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LittleShip
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Reged: 21/07/2003
Posts: 2580
Loc: In the water .... most of the ...
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Do the seams have the cotton still inside?
If so clear any old putty and refill the gap with a white putty mix (I know that they say modern paints ect) I normally add a thumbnail of grease to a ball of putty about the size of a tennis ball, this will make it easier to push into the gap.
After you have cleaned the excess away paint it over with primer (immediately) to prevent any drying. As the planks then expand the putty will still be soft enough to push out.
Not a difficult job but a real pain to do! You will find muscles in your hands you didn't know you had. 
Good luck Tom
-------------------- I wish I'd been born rich instead of good looking ?
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monkey_trousers
regular
Reged: 02/01/2008
Posts: 54
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immensely grateful chaps. going down this afternoon, so will take some pics, and then shopping for bits n bobs. Made myself a little tool to help rake it out, an old triangular paint scraper, ground one of the points in from each side so it leaves a tang about 5mm wide and 10mm deep, hopefully that'll make things a tad easier
-------------------- Restoring an old MFV Motor Fifie
http://bf494.co.uk
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Peterduck
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Reged: 10/04/2002
Posts: 996
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
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Oh, I'm a deep,rich green with envy! That is one lovely ship, and well worth the time and money that you will inevitably spend on her. You can keep your Fifes and Nicholsons, I love working boats! Peter.
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monkey_trousers
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Reged: 02/01/2008
Posts: 54
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aye, she sort of stole my heart as soon as I saw her, luckily the previous owner spent all the money he could where it mattered so below the waterline is tight as drum and mostly new, cosmetically needs work in the saloon, wheelhouse and the like, but thats easy relatively speaking
The winter project is to get her out, give her a good seeing to below the water line, and get the masts and rigging back on
the crack up the stem looks like this:

the stem post was replaced 4 years ago when all the rest of the major work was done, but there a few fasteners that'll need some attention later this year and I've spotted 1 plank I'm not 100% happy with but it looks like a fairly short plank thats maybe been patched in previously,
-------------------- Restoring an old MFV Motor Fifie
http://bf494.co.uk
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Seagreen
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Reged: 30/07/2005
Posts: 1276
Loc: ked myself in the locker again...
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Luvverly boat. Do you plan to restore her to a sailing condition? This is a bit odd as drifters had stowable masts, but I'm not sure that yours ever sailed by the look of her, just lowered her mast whilst lying to her nets. The cracking just looks like normal wood flexing, and nothing must to worry about... unless the filler is covering rot damage. Then you'd best get the plank replaced asap. Good luck with her.
-------------------- "Let Joy be unconfined!"
I'll get her chastity belt keys, then..
http://www.linesquall.co.uk
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monkey_trousers
regular
Reged: 02/01/2008
Posts: 54
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she did sail, and will again, have found a rig off another one suprisingly, so thats the winter project, need to work out how to get 12 metres of very heavy wooden mast plus spars and rigging from wales to the tyne first
from what I can make out she was originally a dipping lug rig, then in the 70's someone rigged her as a gaff ketch, according to the survey there's an estimated 6-8 tons of ballast still littered about in the bilges!
the previous owner removed the masts though, as all he wanted was something to potter about the canal in. Have spoken to the yard that did the work on her 4 years ago, and its was then that the masts came off and they reckon they were the original sticks as well
on the putty front... just a final thought, how long before you can over paint??
-------------------- Restoring an old MFV Motor Fifie
http://bf494.co.uk
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