pipinghot
regular
Reged: 24/06/2007
Posts: 11
|
|
Hello, I have to strip my Hillyard and re putty after some rib repairs (the paint is pretty tired anyway) I am going to burn back (gently) to bare wood and would like some sugestions on primers and the amount of coats required. the final look will be black topsides ivory waterline and red antifouling.
suggestions welcome
thanks
|
PyroJames
regular
Reged: 09/08/2002
Posts: 1068
Loc: Cambridge
|
|
I use these guys and just follow their guidance, but and extra coat or two of primer below the water line is always worthwhile.
|
Tranona
regular
Reged: 10/11/2007
Posts: 1549
|
|
All the major paint manufacturers publish guidance on how to use their products. Personally I would recommend International because I have always had good results, but Blakes, Epifanes, Awl Grip etc all have suitable products.
BTW suggest you avoid black for topsides unless your hull is very stable. Will look like a pair of ribbed stockings in next to no time as black absorbs the heat and could open up all your newly puttied seams!
|
LaTouche
regular
Reged: 15/03/2007
Posts: 66
Loc: Nottingham
|
|
You might find good advice if you post this on the Hillyard group........... hillyards@yahoogroups.com
|
Gordonmc
regular
Reged: 19/09/2001
Posts: 1570
Loc: h Riddon
|
|
Burning back to bare wood will mean you will need to fair the hull from scratch. Advice I followed with my 8-ton Hillyard was to use a random orbital sander with a 60 or 80 grit. Stop the seams with white lead putty and get some paint on before it dries out.
Experience tells me the quality of the primer is more important than the topcoat. I needed a good build with a sand-down by hand to get a decent surface.
For the topcoat I have been using Blakes Pearl White enamel, but I won't be buying any more. It will be Dulux Weathershield from here on.
I would guide against dark colours for the topsides. When I was acquired by the boat the hull was dark green and the planks had opened up on the side facing South on its pontoon. Since going white-ish I haven't had a seam seperate.
--------------------
Visit MarinaSkip to get rid of your unwanted boaty stuff (and pick up
some more!)
ClickyClicky
|
LittleShip
regular
Reged: 21/07/2003
Posts: 2824
Loc: In the water .... most of the ...
|
|
Dulux Weathershield if applied correctly is a 3 part system and is designed for aggressive environments. Personally I feel it is a great product for wood boats.
Personally I will not use anything else, I do use the undercoat but not the primer. It has it's down side and that is it takes a while for the paint to harden in comparison to some of the 2 packs, and the shine is not quite as good but it wont crack on a wooden hull as 2 packs will and do! That said not all have been successful with it's use.
The undercoat is a pig to flat off so careful application is required.
If you need any further info have a look at the web site for Dulux.
Tom
--------------------
I wish I'd been born rich instead of good looking ?
|
Sequoiah1
regular
Reged: 30/01/2007
Posts: 143
Loc: Dartmouth, Devon
|
|
Hi
I bought my old hillyard 6 tonner which was black and it took a helluva beating from the sun so dont do it. I reckon I only just resurected her and it took three years for the new white hull to settle down.
|
chrishelen
regular
Reged: 07/01/2007
Posts: 1328
|
|
As in previous posts a while back weathershield is the way to go,cheaper too.
|
dur
regular
Reged: 19/05/2003
Posts: 182
Loc: Chichester
|
|
Quote:
The undercoat is a pig to flat off
I did some experimentation with Weathershield in the winter but sanding the undercoat clogged the discs straight away - presumably the latex (or whatever it is) that makes the paint flexible. So how do you prepare the undercaot for a good finish? Is it wet and dry by hand only?
|
Previous
Index
Next
Threaded
Edit
Reply
Quote
