mollyoxford
regular
Reged: 17/04/2008
Posts: 78
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We have a teak deck and the sikaflex is looking a bit sad in places (and the wood beside it takes ages to dry out - not good). What's the best, safest (to the teak) way to get the old stuff out and new stuff in??
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PyroJames
regular
Reged: 09/08/2002
Posts: 1068
Loc: Cambridge
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Get a Feinmultimaster with dedicated caulking removal blade, and replace with Saba Seal One sealant. The fein is brilliant, the Saba is better (IMHO) than Sika. Follow the instructions in detail and watch their clip on putting it in. It flows better than Stickyflex, so tends not to get bubbles/air pockets. I've used it on two boats now, and very pleased with the results.
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mollyoxford
regular
Reged: 17/04/2008
Posts: 78
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Thank you very much - just what I wanted to know. I shall look up both!
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Peterduck
regular
Reged: 10/04/2002
Posts: 1032
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
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Bubbles and air pockets are caused by drawing thecaulking gun towards you when feeding the goo in. Much better to push it away from you, as then the goo is fed in under compression, not under tension. By angling the gun steeply as you feed the stuff in, you can get the goo right to the bottom of the groove.
Peter
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Seagreen
regular
Reged: 30/07/2005
Posts: 1421
Loc: ked myself in the locker again...
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This is a job I was putting off till this winter. I've a Multimaster with the deck blade, outstanding tool. I'll be doing running repairs for the summer, once the boat's in the water. Too concerned about the hull drying out - nightmare!
I'll chase up Pyrojames' tip on the saba sealant. Especially if it is cheaper!
--------------------
"Let Joy be unconfined!"
I'll get her chastity belt keys, then..
http://www.linesquall.co.uk
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PyroJames
regular
Reged: 09/08/2002
Posts: 1068
Loc: Cambridge
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Robbins were doing a 3 for the price of 2 when I bought mine. (60 tubes!)
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lexi
regular
Reged: 28/02/2006
Posts: 140
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If you tool the material in properly with a wooden tooling stick impregnated in soapy water for days you will not have any trapped air with whatever sealant you use. Use a lot of pressure like if you were plastering a wall. If the sticks are prepped then material will not stick to them. Overgun slightly and use a broader stick to scrape material flush against the tapes you have stuck both sides of the joint.
Does nobody use good old Thioflex two part with Isocynate primer now? It is nice and flexible although more tricky to mix and apply etc. All these companies make fantastic claims for their Polyeurathane sealants and yet they do not even have a BS number??
Edited by lexi (17/06/2008 10:28)
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mollyoxford
regular
Reged: 17/04/2008
Posts: 78
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The boyfriend has been called "Mr Goop" for his ability with all types of sealants (I think I put that carefully enough to not bear misinterpretation), so I shall be entrusting the job to him (and passing on all the good tips!).
One question on the Fein - how easy is it to control? i.e. not rip chunks out of the deck. How heavy are they - compared to say a decent power drill.
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PyroJames
regular
Reged: 09/08/2002
Posts: 1068
Loc: Cambridge
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About the same as the small triangular sanders, and very easy to control. As they vibrate rather than spin, progressive cutting is simple. They don't have a tendancy to "run away".
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Seagreen
regular
Reged: 30/07/2005
Posts: 1421
Loc: ked myself in the locker again...
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Just to say about the Fein Multimaster. Its probably the most versatile and useful tool I ever bought. Its the tool of first resort now for almost every awkward cutting or sanding job I do.
--------------------
"Let Joy be unconfined!"
I'll get her chastity belt keys, then..
http://www.linesquall.co.uk
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