Sailfree
regular
Reged: 18/01/2003
Posts: 2892
Loc: Solent
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Bought the correct 3V lithium Ion batteries but they came with conventional battery cap type ends not a tag set in Wax and I cannot get the solder to take on these caps.
Need to connect wires and Diodes etc.
Obviously concerned at heating the battery too much.
An option is to drill a small holer in the caps and use a small self tapper to make the connection.
Anyone managed the solder route and how did you manage it please?
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rogerdog
regular
Reged: 05/02/2007
Posts: 167
Loc: Bristol Channel
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Would be extremely concerned with your proposed idea of drilling holes /self tappers (sheer bodgery) . If it were for a torch or something used in a non critical role - maybe - but for the EPERB - NO; would only want the correct battery as per manufacturers spec all soldered correctly using tabs on contacts.
Personally, would prefer to send EPERB back to manufacturers for service
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Sailfree
regular
Reged: 18/01/2003
Posts: 2892
Loc: Solent
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Quote:
Personally, would prefer to send EPERB back to manufacturers for service
Look its no good you stating that now after I have bought the batteries following a thread on here a few months ago stating how easy it was to replace them on the same model that I had!!!
How did they solder theirs??
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Ruffles
regular
Reged: 26/02/2004
Posts: 1003
Loc: Boat: Portsmouth, Us: Stewkley
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What power soldering iron are you using? I've soldered direct to NiMh AA batteries using a 30W iron and it was just powerful enough. The more powerful the iron the faster you can do it and the less chance of heat damage.
BTW there's a lot of energy in these batteries. Suggest wearing eye protection.
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Rob Owen
Ruffles
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Rogershaw
regular
Reged: 03/11/2001
Posts: 1391
Loc: Me: Johannesburg South Africa ...
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Done it several times.
1) use fine emery paper to clean terminal and to remove plating.
2) use good flux to again clean surface of terminal
3) use a good "high" power soldering iron to get heat into terminal quickly.
4) ensure tip of iron is clean and tined with solder before applying to terminal of battery.
where did you get your replacement batteries from I found several suppliers including RS and others cheaper in the US.
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Sailfree
regular
Reged: 18/01/2003
Posts: 2892
Loc: Solent
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Quote:
where did you get your replacement batteries from I found several suppliers including RS and others cheaper in the US.
Thanks for advice - will try that and more powerful soldering iron.
I went onto a UK web site IIRC they are shaft batteries made in USA. Total cost about £33 including delivery.
Stick stuff that holds them together is a bit of a b!! I intend to replace that with equally stickly stuff tape supplied to put electric underfloor heating down - appears very similar.
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maxi
regular
Reged: 08/11/2002
Posts: 591
Loc: Hampshire
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Successful using a 'stainless steel' flux, brand name FRYSOL, to be used with caution as it's pretty aggressive.
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rogerdog
regular
Reged: 05/02/2007
Posts: 167
Loc: Bristol Channel
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Could also try using a 'tinmans' soldering iron (big lump of copper heated with a gas flame) - often found in car boot sales now - but still very useful when a lot of heat needed.
Works well soldering the braid of pl259s so should help here
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Spyro
regular
Reged: 18/01/2003
Posts: 1549
Loc: North Ayrshire
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I had a similar experience recently replacing the 3v lithium in my garmin gps12.
Be warned this is dangerous. I used a very hot bolt and flux cored solder. I had the problem that the solder would not "take" to the Stainless of the battery I had a very lucky escape, as I turned away for a second the battery exploded leaving a dent in the ceiling and burnt lithium and pieces of solder scattered around the kitchen. Obviously too much heat applied. I believe the old terminals were attached with a very fine weld.
Anyway the solution I used was to attach the wires with plastic tape. It seems to be working ok.
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WANT TO BUY A TRAPPER300?
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Sailfree
regular
Reged: 18/01/2003
Posts: 2892
Loc: Solent
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Thanks for warning.
Soldering activities will now be transfered from Kitchen to Garage.
Going to rub down terminals and flux them first and see if I can "tin" the surface first without attempting to solder a connection. Will check whether ends are SS as well in case special flux is more appropriate.
No one said any of this on previous thread!!
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