trouville
regular
Reged: 10/06/2004
Posts: 2847
Loc: crusing with an Arpège
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For many reasons im liveing on a small old wooden boat at the side of a canal.Everyday ive looked at the sky and prayed it wouldent rain,so far it hasent
Even a heavy dew sets up drips which gets me up in the fresh early morning.Ive tried Polysulfide buttel rubber and putty so far none have worked??
I laid a 6 inch joint the put in barriers each end & filled with just a millimeter of water to test;within a very short time leaks began.It makes sleeping a chalenge!
While its not to hot at night i can use a water proof sleeping bag cover with a silk inner sleeping sheet
Ive added screws to help the joint but the water still gets in
Any suggestions?
While the forums been down,i just couldent post,ive been makeing rope fenders theres a old cloths bin not far away when someone comes along ive been asking for old rag to stuff them with.Sometimes the old rags are better than what im wearing!!! Ive stocked up my wadrobe as well!!
I hope i can fix the leak?
Ill look in again tommorow as i have quite a ride to get to this wi-fi its amazing how few people have wi-fi in some places!
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liveaboard
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kittern
regular
Reged: 21/03/2007
Posts: 339
Loc: Solent
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Captain Tolly's Creeping Crack Cure ..... I think that's what its called.
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Peterduck
regular
Reged: 10/04/2002
Posts: 996
Loc: Melbourne, Australia
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Although Capt. Tolley's is not available her in Oz, I've read good reports about it. I have previously sealed deck leaks with beeswax, melted in place [and blown along the crack] with a hot-air gun on the lowest setting. I'd peel off a shaving of the wax and poke it vertically into the top of the crack and slowly approach it with the hot air. The trick is to get it to melt into the crack before the blast of air blows it where it isn't wanted. I've also had good results with an electric soldering iron to melt the wax.
Peter.
Peter.
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KenMcCulloch
regular
Reged: 22/04/2007
Posts: 803
Loc: Edinburgh, Scotland
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Trouville, this is what I used to seal my cabin windows and it seems to have been very effective. You can also get it from John Greenaway at tradboats .
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Ken McCulloch
Border Maid
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SunyBay
regular
Reged: 13/04/2008
Posts: 30
Loc: Glasgow, Scotland
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I can testify to Creeping Crack Cure working. My father used it on another boat that we owned for a wee while, and it really stopped the leaks.
But as a more permanent cure, he then covered the whole deckhouse in Coelan. That stopped everything (and looked good too - it was over bare wood) - definitely worth the expense!
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wrr
regular
Reged: 23/10/2001
Posts: 72
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If it is really the deck-cabin joint, this is not an uncommon problem. You need some quarter radius moulding in teak, iroko or mahogany. This needs to be degreased with acetone and epoxied to the vertical surface. It can be held in place with counter-sunk brass pins in predrilled holes. The moulding should be a few mm. clear of the horizontal surface, best achieved by bits of extra-long matchsticks. Remove the matchsticks and allow the epoxy to set. Then caulk the seam between the moulding and the deck with cotton and mastic sealant. Finish off by gunning mastic on top of the caulking and profile. Allow to dry and varnish. A few hours work but produces a completely dry and long-lasting solution.
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cliff
regular
Reged: 15/04/2004
Posts: 5659
Loc: various
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Ask BrendanS - I am sure he will be very happy to advise you 
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 Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity
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Bilgediver
regular
Reged: 06/06/2001
Posts: 1375
Loc: Scotland
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Ask BrendanS - I am sure he will be very happy to advise you
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I think you are tempting providence and Brendans reply would probably be removed due to our young audience!!!
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Eastern Scotland and beyond.
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trouville
regular
Reged: 10/06/2004
Posts: 2847
Loc: crusing with an Arpège
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Firstly,ive tried bees wax it dose work untill the first really warm day when the damm stuff drips!Thats almost worse than water.
I dont like epoxy in theory it should work very well but ive had a boat on which the trim had been screwed and epoxed it had been done some years before i bought the boat & leaks were starting,it was time to remove the trim and reseal but the epoxy held so well i couldent get it off cleanly.That was a very big job!!
The other drawback is that the trim has to be revarnished from time to time and even trim with a half inch face is very hard to sand without damageing the cabin sides & deck and by hand the sanding and re linseed oiling or re staining takes for ever.Much easier to remove the trim and if the woods become to old replace which cant be done with ease when its glued
So far it hasent rained and i touch wood it wont???
I think ive fixed it??The other day the roads were being repaired in a small village i was tied up by a disused facrtory i asked for a pot of tar which they gave me i masked etc and poured that around the cabin seems to work
No time to say more im standing in someones garden with the x40 in one hand typing with the othere in a moment so one might ask what im doing!!
wi-fis getting hard to find 
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liveaboard
Edited by trouville (30/06/2008 11:24)
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fishermantwo
regular
Reged: 20/07/2003
Posts: 435
Loc: NSW. Australia
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This is always a problem with fishing boats. The solution around here is to use a product
from the housing industry that is used to seal shower recess corners under the tiling. The timber framing moves slightly and allows water to leak into adjoining rooms. The solution is a membrane that can flex. It looks like fibreglass tape but isn't. A thick acrylic paint is applied to the joint and the tape is laid over it while its still wet. This is then overcoated with more of the acrylic material. When dry its painted with either oil based or acrylic paint. Works fine on my boat and other fishing vessels.
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