Fitting a new diesel filter

**michael_w** · 03-12-09, 12:16

Racor 500 series is what you want.

**Chris_Robb** · 03-12-09, 12:29

Originally Posted by michael_w

Racor 500 series is what you want.

If you have rigid pipes, then you can get flexible armoured pipes made up by hydraulic hose specialist - not overly expensive.

Thse guys are Portsmouth based

http://www.hyphose.com/branches.html

Did mine whilst I waited.

Get rid of the CAV asap -

**Stemar** · 03-12-09, 12:50

As others have said, the CAV is a PITA. Can you imagine trying to sort out aligning 3 different elements with slightly different sizes of O rings in a nice steep chop while a lee shore approaches apace?

After losing my engine at a point where I really didn't need the hassle, I went to my local scrappy and got a couple of matching filter holders for £15 each, added isolating taps from ASAP and a bit of pipe and I now have two spin-on filters in parallel. I run on one and the other is primed and ready to go, so if the active one blocks, it takes about 10 seconds to switch over. I doubt if the whole job cost as much as a single Racor conversion.

**prv** · 03-12-09, 18:26

Originally Posted by BlowingOldBoots

I used the Vetus twin filter unit 75704VTE for my 80HP engine.

Can I ask where you got it from? Googling the part number doesn't seem to find anyone online selling it.

Cheers,

Pete

**Scotty_Tradewind** · 03-12-09, 23:15

Hi Vyv,
I notice you have rubber pipe. Can I run this all the way from the diesel tank to the filter/seperator and then on towards the engine?
If so what fittings do I need at the top of the filter, from the tank and from the engine end to fit the rubber pipe to and what pipe?

Whilst I have the attention of the diesel experts, I mentioned in another blog that my diesel tank breather occassionally seeped out diesel.
I still havn't solved this yet and I'm confused as to why it happens now and again anyway ???
My plan is to remove the original if I can get to it... in a very confined spot that even a childs hands cannot get to, clean out the outlet and connect a new pipe and try and route it higher than the original and try to always keep the new pipe going upwards until the end where I will put a turn on it.
How high off the top of the tank should i go, and what i/d pipe would be advisable?

I've also had the offer of a brand new Vetus filter/seperator head with filter for £60... is that good? I notice the replacement filter is not cheap to replace each time though.

ta
S

**vyv_cox** · 04-12-09, 13:35

Originally Posted by Scotty_Twister

Hi Vyv,
I notice you have rubber pipe. Can I run this all the way from the diesel tank to the filter/seperator and then on towards the engine?
If so what fittings do I need at the top of the filter, from the tank and from the engine end to fit the rubber pipe to and what pipe?

How high off the top of the tank should i go, and what i/d pipe would be advisable?

The diesel hose on my boat has always been rubber. I guess a solid material might be better but it has survived pretty well for 25 years. Most automotive diesels have some non-armoured flexible hose somewhere in the supply, so it seems this is not seen as especially unsafe. The cutoff valve is accessible from outside the engine compartment. I was just reading David Rainsbury's piece in the Dec PBO where he used bike brake cables to improve the access to his valve, seems like a good idea that I may copy.

My filter came with hose tails so was easy to fit. Most chandlers sell hose specifically for fuel, although I would avoid the clear nylon stuff which hardens badly in a relatively short time. If you were going to install a hard-piped supply I would talk to a motor factor about what fittings they can make up for you. Most piping on cars seems to be made in CuNiFer these days, a much better material than pure copper. They will also supply the best diesel hose.

My tank breather is only a couple of inches above the top of the tank. Nowadays you can buy a filler that has a side branch for attachment to the breather pipe. This would overcome your problem as any leakage would go straight back into the tank.

**Chris_Robb** · 04-12-09, 13:45

Originally Posted by Scotty_Twister

Hi Vyv,
I notice you have rubber pipe. Can I run this all the way from the diesel tank to the filter/seperator and then on towards the engine?
If so what fittings do I need at the top of the filter, from the tank and from the engine end to fit the rubber pipe to and what pipe?

Whilst I have the attention of the diesel experts, I mentioned in another blog that my diesel tank breather occassionally seeped out diesel.
I still havn't solved this yet and I'm confused as to why it happens now and again anyway ???
My plan is to remove the original if I can get to it... in a very confined spot that even a childs hands cannot get to, clean out the outlet and connect a new pipe and try and route it higher than the original and try to always keep the new pipe going upwards until the end where I will put a turn on it.
How high off the top of the tank should i go, and what i/d pipe would be advisable?

I've also had the offer of a brand new Vetus filter/seperator head with filter for £60... is that good? I notice the replacement filter is not cheap to replace each time though.

ta
S

Scotty - see a few post higher - Hypose in Cosham will make up the hoses whilst you wait. I don't think there is any point in having metal pipes as the bowl of the Racor is plastic and therefore could melt in a fire. Therefore it is important to have an external fuel cutoff.

**parsifal** · 04-12-09, 13:57

I connected mine with copper pipe because I took the opportunity of relocating the filter and installing a new pipe run.I ordered the copper tube and fittings from ASAP Ltd together with the filter. May not be the cheapest source for fittings but it's easier to get everything from one supplier.