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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Default Bukh DV20 impellor shaft removal

    That blimmin engine Now the impellor has stopped impelling. Looks like the pin driving the shaft which drives the impellor has sheared. It looks to me that to remove the handstart housing to get to the pin I have to take off the flywheel. Any hints? Or is it possible to get in there without removing the flywheel?

    TIA

    Also, do I need to drain the oil before opening the housing?
    Last edited by Conachair; 15-03-10 at 12:09.

  2. #2
    vyv_cox's Avatar
    vyv_cox is offline Registered User
    Location : North Wales, sailing Aegean Sea or Menai Strait
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    Default

    The manual seems to suggest that you don't need to remove the flywheel, but it's such a poor document that this may not be a good guide. However removing the flywheel is quite straightforward and will make the job easier, just undo the bolts and give the flywheel a tap forwards. It's heavy and the starter ring teeth are sharp, so take care. All the bolts on mine were very rusted, so getting the handstart housing off was a big job. but the pump had been leaking for a long time (I believe)
    Answers to some technical queries at http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com

  3. #3
    SimonJ is offline Registered User
    Location : Returned to Caribbean for the winter, back to uk for the 'summer'
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    Default BUKH 20 impellor drive shaft

    You can dismantle the auxiliary drive for the hand start/water pump drive mechanism on a DV20ME without removing the flywheel. You might wish to replace the roller bearings while you are at it, if you have ever had water ingress to this area (very common) you will likely need/want to anyway. You do not need to drain the sump but may well decide to change the oil/filter afterwards which would be good practice (although I have never done that after access to that area, I confess).
    But, as ever, the best advice will always come from the wonderful guys at Bukh UK in Poole!
    SimonJ

  4. #4
    alan17 is offline Registered User
    Location : Home near Stansted Airport Boat at Burnham yacht harbour
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    Default Bukh flywheel

    As already stated removal is easy and the flwheel is heavy!

    To play safe remove the bolts but before actually freeing the flywheel from the shaft refit 2 of the securing bolts by 3 or 4 threads then easy the flywheel off as far as possible. Then remove the replaced bolts and be ready for the weight. Keep toes and fingers clear from under flywheel.

  5. #5
    christo2024's Avatar
    christo2024 is offline Registered User
    Location : Ramsey, Harwich
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    Aug 2005
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    89

    Default Bukh pump

    Take Simonj's advice and call Bukh. They really are very helpful. I have nothing but praise for them. Nothing is too much trouble for them and they will surely advise you best.

    My Bukh is great and I can still hand start it from cold. Fantastic !!

    Good luck with the pump

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Default

    Agree about Bukh UK, they are great. Will speak to them in the morning. Got flywheel off but roller bearing on the shaft next to the impeller is siezed solid so time for a mechanic and another wait for spare parts I think.
    Anyone ever tried using a small 12v water pump instead of the impellor for a short time? i could really do to get in the next bay along, nothing where Im anchored & too many reefs to sail it.

    Thanks all.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    736

    Default

    The 20 flywheel is around 30kg if I recall.
    Previously, I went and bought the tools with the correct reach to do the job and worked around it.
    You will need a torque wrench to put it back on, and the folks at bukh recommend new bolts (x6) & thread lock.
    no help whatsoever with the pump problem i'm afraid - I ain't been there yet.
    good luck.

  8. #8
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    Jul 2009
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    10,068

    Default Header tank?

    Quote Originally Posted by Conachair View Post
    i could really do to get in the next bay along, nothing where Im anchored & too many reefs to sail it.

    Thanks all.
    If it was me - I would put a bucket, or other container, of water on the coachroof and run a siphon tube from it to the engine. I would use a G-clamp or Mole grips to adjust the flow rate and give a crew member the job of keeping the container full.

    Be careful not to let too much water flow into the engine or it might get into the cylinder. Start the engine a few moments before turning on the water supply and turn off the water before stopping the engine.

  9. #9

    Default Bukh DV 10 LME

    Hi Anbody with experience on the DV 10 LME ?
    I am in Malta where the weather can get quite hot in Summer, found that using an SAE40 creates less oil mist and therefore less smell.
    Also have been using Bio Diesel 100% and have noticed that the engine runs more smoothly and also no disgustng diesel smell, exhaust smells of burnt chips.
    The cooling system have checked thermostat opens at the required temp but gauge is always registering in the blue, however enginne temperature is hot to the touch, have bought a new thermostat from Bukh UK looks different to the old one with less rings around the spring did not work too well and overheated on a couple of occasions have put the old one back in!!!!
    Have not located the internal zinc anode ?? anyone knows where it should be.
    Thanks
    R

  10. #10
    vyv_cox's Avatar
    vyv_cox is offline Registered User
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by parsifal View Post
    If it was me - I would put a bucket, or other container, of water on the coachroof and run a siphon tube from it to the engine. I would use a G-clamp or Mole grips to adjust the flow rate and give a crew member the job of keeping the container full.

    Be careful not to let too much water flow into the engine or it might get into the cylinder. Start the engine a few moments before turning on the water supply and turn off the water before stopping the engine.
    This method will work OK but singlehanded might be difficult to arrange. A small pump, like the submersible ones used for caravan water supplies, will be fine if the engine speed is kept fairly low. Bukhs only need a 1/2 inch supply and a relatively low flow. Wire it into the engine start to avoid the problem parsival outlines, but it won't do much harm if you just switch the pump on as soon as the engine starts.
    Answers to some technical queries at http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com

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