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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    406

    Default Paris Rhone Alternator and Sterling Regulator

    Hi
    I am trying to fit a Sterling regulator to a Paris Rhone Alternator model
    A13N1M on my Bukh 20
    it has 4 terminals on the back -ve and +ve which are self explanatory, and W and 61 which I believe are Rev Counter and Ignition respectively. However I do not know where to fit the "field" wire to the alternator. I have spoken to Sterling who have been helpful but the only way they can be sure is for me to solder some wires into the regulator and run the engine up with a multimeter across them - this I would be happy to do normally but at the moment the cooling system is half way through refurb And I would like to get this job done. Does anyone know has any one fitted these two together before?

    many thanks for any help

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nickd View Post
    Hi
    I am trying to fit a Sterling regulator to a Paris Rhone Alternator model
    A13N1M on my Bukh 20
    it has 4 terminals on the back -ve and +ve which are self explanatory, and W and 61 which I believe are Rev Counter and Ignition respectively. However I do not know where to fit the "field" wire to the alternator. I have spoken to Sterling who have been helpful but the only way they can be sure is for me to solder some wires into the regulator and run the engine up with a multimeter across them - this I would be happy to do normally but at the moment the cooling system is half way through refurb And I would like to get this job done. Does anyone know has any one fitted these two together before?

    many thanks for any help
    The Adverc instruction http://www.adverc.co.uk/cm/files/pdf...structions.pdf, in Section 5, have some info on positive and negative field circuits and where to attach the brush control wire. There are also some pictures at the end of the paper (Section 8).

    This might help
    ------------------------------------
    Loves sailing, hates gardening

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    470

    Default Sterling Regulator on Paris-Rhone

    Hi,
    I have done this very job on my engine (a Bukh DV10). The method that Sterling advise can still apply in your case since you need to solder a wire onto each of the two brush assemblies. This is not difficult although is a bit fiddly. You can find detailed instructions on the Sterling website where you can download a .pdf file dealing with the Digital Advanced Regulator installation.

    The tricky bit is refitting the alternator regulator back on with these two new wires routed neatly and safely. Fiddly but take your time and it's perfectly possible.

    You then re-fit the alternator to the engine and can complete all the rest of the installation except for the alternator control cable which will be connected to the correct one of the two field wires you have fitted. You will not know which of these two to use until the engine is running and you can measure the field voltage. The unused wire you simply snip off and seal/insulate the cut end. I simply crimped a sealed off cable joiner onto the end. I repeat you do not need to remove the unused cable - just leave it neat and secure.

    The new Sterling Regulator was a huge improvement to my electrical system so I hope you will a get similar result.
    Morgan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    470

    Default Sterling Power data download

    I omitted to give you the link to the step by step instructions on the Sterling site. Here it is:-

    http://www.sterling-power.com/images...nstruction.pdf

    Some of us are not good at referring to instruction manuals but I do recommend that you read the whole thing before you do anything, then simply follow the step by step instructions- it works!

    Good luck
    Morgan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    1,478

    Default

    i extended both wires as i was in the same situation with the engine being out of commision, i put both wires on then did the test to establish the correct one once the engine was back in. the wire i didnt need was crimped into a cable joiner to make safe.

    steve

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