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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    3

    Default Solid Tar in Limber Holes - Help!

    Hi

    Newbie here.

    Boat: 1927 motor cruiser/ketch - wooden - Dickies of Bangor

    http://rcpt.yousendit.com/866759143/...f62ed6632bab48


    Limber holes in engine bay inaccessible but blocked solid with what I assume to be years of engine oil build up. It is solid - just like coal. I cannot get in there to break it up. Front bilge full of water. Any suggestions welcome.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    3,495

    Default

    Would you have enough access to use a flexible drive.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    Colwell Bay
    Posts
    5,648

    Default

    Looks like a nice old tub.

    I think you just have to find a way of getting at it and chipping it away.

    Clear limber holes very important.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    East Coast
    Posts
    841

    Default Limber holes

    Scuse my ignorance what are limber holes?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    up on the moors.
    Posts
    33,322

    Default

    they are holes bored at the bottom (and sometimes higher up) of frames to allow water to run from a high part of the bilge to the lowest.

    Sometimes to keep them free, a long small brass chain is threaded through so that you can pull it to and fro to free the limber holes from shavings, bits of paper and dead rats.
    I think, therefore I am. I am, therefore I sail.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Not sure chuck will fit through limbers but that was my first thought. I expect the drill will not have enough hold to do much. However will ge a flexidrive and give it a try. Thanx for response.
    Another idea is to block the limber hole prior to the obstruction, suck out the water to get obstruction dry and then pour in concentrated tar remover. There are some that are water soluable and safe - how effective they are I am not sure.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Gorleston on Sea
    Posts
    407

    Default

    Softening it up with a hot air gun first may be helpful. OF

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    19,519

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rmorris301 View Post
    Not sure chuck will fit through limbers but that was my first thought. I expect the drill will not have enough hold to do much. However will ge a flexidrive and give it a try. Thanx for response.
    Another idea is to block the limber hole prior to the obstruction, suck out the water to get obstruction dry and then pour in concentrated tar remover. There are some that are water soluable and safe - how effective they are I am not sure.
    Is there room to use a gland packing removal tool with a flexible shaft?

    http://www.jameswalker.biz/group/pro...xtractors.html


    Or you might be able to use something like a drawer lock chisel

    http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?im...26tbs%3Disch:1

    I'm not suggesting you pay the insane price asked for this but you could make something similar from a piece of mild steel bar. (it wouldn't need hardening for digging out tar)


    I remember my mother using eucalyptus oil to get tar off clothes. Might be worth a try but would probably be very slow. Even if it doesn't work your boat will smell fresh and your breathing will be easier

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    3

    Default

    can't get within 3ft of it...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Devon
    Posts
    669

    Default

    Can you get a length of copper pipe to it, with a bend in it so that it lines up with the hole? If so, get a pipe bending spring one size too small for the pipe, braze a small hole saw on the end, (or make your own hole saw from a piece of steel pipe) and use it to drill out the tar - same idea as a flexible drive, but not flexible. You can extend the bending spring with rod at the drill end. By judicious choice of bits of pipe you should be able to make it up so that the hole saw runs inside the end of the pipe that butts up against the floor.

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