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  1. #131
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    634

    Default

    It is a zero ohm link.

    In the old days of pcb assembly, a special machine was used to make links from wire, these were then inserted by hand, or a link inserter machine.

    In more recent days, most pcb assembly is done by machine, the resistors & other similar components are 'bandoleered', (sp) fed into the machine on reels which then cuts, bends & inserts the component. Zero ohm links were produced in a resistor shape, so the same machine could insert the links.


    These days, most circuit boards use surface mount components, so same principle, different machine, but the zero ohm links are still produced in surface mount packaging.
    This post is made from 100% recycled electrons.

  2. #132
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    15,407

    Default

    Photon Wrote" Regarding potting the transducer, the outer packet material for the urethane potting compound is a aluminium/polyethylene foil laminate and is an excellent substitute material for the cling-film mentioned in the instructions as it does not ruck. It has a paper label glued on the outside which could be used with PVA glue to adhere this material to a flat sheet of board with the packet inside face upwards. I can confirm that with a tiny smear of vaseline on the inside face material it released from the cured compound leaving a very smooth potted transducer.


    I thought of using it, but had already used kitcken foil for the first one before I thought of it, so just carried on with the foil for the second one, but it is probably the best stuff to use because it does not crease. You need to be careful not to crease foil, but cling film is the worst thing to use.
    Working on immortality - One day at a time.

  3. #133
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Posts
    4,801

    Default

    Have decided to pot mine in situ to give a good bond to the hull and eliminate any transmission problems caused by gaps when screwing the potted transducer into the flange or it working loose at some time.

  4. #134
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    389

    Default Project

    Might have a go at this. Source code for the PIC Micro is very simple. They even check the 12v power supply and if it drops below 11.5v then the unit will not drive the Transducer.

    Keep me busy for a couple of nights.

    Just hope my PIC Micro programmer can program this one.

  5. #135
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    15,407

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    Quote Originally Posted by petehb View Post
    Have decided to pot mine in situ to give a good bond to the hull and eliminate any transmission problems caused by gaps when screwing the potted transducer into the flange or it working loose at some time.
    Interesting idea. If you do that, I suggest that you use the JB Weld epoxy glue to fix the nut to the hull, with the socket screwed in place and glued as well. The risk of that method is that it is a final solution, and if you want to try a different place, you will be out of luck.
    Working on immortality - One day at a time.

  6. #136
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    159

    Default Help needed identifying the US transducer

    Hi all,

    I'm following this thread/subject avidly as I want to build one or two of these units.

    Can someone please help me identify the transducer by posting any marks/numbers etc that appear on it. I've received a quote of $20 per piece from Hainertec for a transducer that I believe is the correct one, but I'd like to make sure that I'm ordering the correct unit.

    I already have the physical dimensions that someone very kindly posted some time back.

    At this price, I can't afford not to try the US A/F method!

    TIA,
    Ruvane.
    TechnoLaser

  7. #137
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    15,407

    Default

    Mine are both potted, but I don't think there were any markings on them.
    Working on immortality - One day at a time.

  8. #138
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Posts
    885

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ruvane View Post
    Hi all,

    I'm following this thread/subject avidly as I want to build one or two of these units.

    Can someone please help me identify the transducer by posting any marks/numbers etc that appear on it. I've received a quote of $20 per piece from Hainertec for a transducer that I believe is the correct one, but I'd like to make sure that I'm ordering the correct unit.

    I already have the physical dimensions that someone very kindly posted some time back.

    At this price, I can't afford not to try the US A/F method!

    TIA,
    Ruvane.


    If it looks similar is rated at 50watts and around 40Khz then in theory it should be ok. In this project the power output is the key.

    Hope this helps
    I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure...

  9. #139

    Default

    hm..bitman..can you list for me, the component of ultrasonic antifouling for boat, that you have show the picture?..
    i really need it..your coopration is highly appreciated...
    because i'm gonna doing this, for my final year project..
    hope that you can really help me..
    thanks you.!

  10. #140
    nigelmercier's Avatar
    nigelmercier is offline Registered User
    Location : Live in Kent, boat in Canary Islands
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    12,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ruvane View Post
    Can someone please help me identify the transducer by posting any marks/numbers etc that appear on it. I've received a quote of $20 per piece from Hainertec for a transducer that I believe is the correct one, but I'd like to make sure that I'm ordering the correct unit.
    I'm also interested in this info, and perhaps organising a group buy for the transducers.
    Nigel
    FREE Bavaria Yacht Forum: www.bavariayacht.info

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