It is a zero ohm link.
In the old days of pcb assembly, a special machine was used to make links from wire, these were then inserted by hand, or a link inserter machine.
In more recent days, most pcb assembly is done by machine, the resistors & other similar components are 'bandoleered', (sp) fed into the machine on reels which then cuts, bends & inserts the component. Zero ohm links were produced in a resistor shape, so the same machine could insert the links.
These days, most circuit boards use surface mount components, so same principle, different machine, but the zero ohm links are still produced in surface mount packaging.
Results 131 to 140 of 361
17-02-11, 20:29 #131Registered User
Location : In the Med
This post is made from 100% recycled electrons.
- Join Date
- May 2005
17-02-11, 20:33 #132
Photon Wrote" Regarding potting the transducer, the outer packet material for the urethane potting compound is a aluminium/polyethylene foil laminate and is an excellent substitute material for the cling-film mentioned in the instructions as it does not ruck. It has a paper label glued on the outside which could be used with PVA glue to adhere this material to a flat sheet of board with the packet inside face upwards. I can confirm that with a tiny smear of vaseline on the inside face material it released from the cured compound leaving a very smooth potted transducer.
I thought of using it, but had already used kitcken foil for the first one before I thought of it, so just carried on with the foil for the second one, but it is probably the best stuff to use because it does not crease. You need to be careful not to crease foil, but cling film is the worst thing to use.Working on immortality - One day at a time.
17-02-11, 20:55 #133
Have decided to pot mine in situ to give a good bond to the hull and eliminate any transmission problems caused by gaps when screwing the potted transducer into the flange or it working loose at some time.
18-02-11, 14:20 #134Registered User
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
Might have a go at this. Source code for the PIC Micro is very simple. They even check the 12v power supply and if it drops below 11.5v then the unit will not drive the Transducer.
Keep me busy for a couple of nights.
Just hope my PIC Micro programmer can program this one.
18-02-11, 14:31 #135Working on immortality - One day at a time.
19-02-11, 16:48 #136
Help needed identifying the US transducer
I'm following this thread/subject avidly as I want to build one or two of these units.
Can someone please help me identify the transducer by posting any marks/numbers etc that appear on it. I've received a quote of $20 per piece from Hainertec for a transducer that I believe is the correct one, but I'd like to make sure that I'm ordering the correct unit.
I already have the physical dimensions that someone very kindly posted some time back.
At this price, I can't afford not to try the US A/F method!
19-02-11, 17:46 #137
Mine are both potted, but I don't think there were any markings on them.Working on immortality - One day at a time.
20-02-11, 14:42 #138
23-02-11, 03:54 #139New User
- Join Date
- Feb 2011
hm..bitman..can you list for me, the component of ultrasonic antifouling for boat, that you have show the picture?..
i really need it..your coopration is highly appreciated...
because i'm gonna doing this, for my final year project..
hope that you can really help me..
23-02-11, 12:21 #140Nigel
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