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  1. #1
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    Default Rigging to cockpit advice

    We have a Cobra 850 28ft yacht. At the moment, the main haliard, reefing lines, outhaul, topping lift and so on are rigged to winches on the mast. I've recently acquired a couple of winches and blocks (kindly donated by another forumite) and I'd like to lead the lines back to the cockpit, with the winches housed on the saloon roof either side of the companionway.

    The lines I have on the mast are main and spinnaker haliards, topping lift, kicker, outhaul and two sets of main reefing lines. I could attach the main to hooks on the boom, or lead another line back for each reef point, meaning I could reef from the cockpit.

    Any advice on which lines would be best to lead back and which are less useful? I'm trying to come up with a design, but would appreciate some thoughts before I bugger it up.

  2. #2
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    Sep 2009
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    Hi
    I went through this exercise last year on my Konsort. In the end I have made provision for them all to come back to the cockpit.

    I say provision because I have put in the deck hardware and clutches but not as yet replaced all of the reefing lines with ones long enough to get back to the cockpit.

    If you have the budget I would recommend that you install the hardware to do the lot, as you wull have to drill holes in the cockpit roof and presumably remove the head linings inside, two jobs you do not want to do twice.

    How to prioritise which ones to bring back? well I guess you put them in the order of how often you use them, so main halyard first then topping lift (even if you don't use it as often as others), when you drop/raise the main you will also need to adjust the topping lift, so one without the other is a waste of time.
    Then its how often do you use the others?
    How do launch the spinnaker, if you have to be on the foredeck anyway may be there is no need to bring that one back?

    Make sure you plan the siting of the deck organisers well, to ensure a good path back. I used spinlock as you can stack them on top of each other.

    Hope this helps

  3. #3
    prv is offline Registered User
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    In my opinion it's important to have reefing lines and main halyard in the same place, whether that's at the mast or the cockpit. Otherwise it's impossible to reef on your own. Even if you don't sail singlehanded, your crew might be otherwise occupied.

    Can't see much point in leading the spinnaker halyard aft, as you have to play around on the foredeck for a spinnaker anyway, and the additional friction will stop you hoisting it as quick as someone "bell-ringing" at the mast.

    Outhaul and kicker are more "tweaky", so while they could come back if you have the space I'd suggest they're not really a priority.

    If you run halyard and clew reef pendants to the cockpit, don't use horns at the gooseneck. Worst of all worlds. Use tack pendants instead, led aft.

    Importance of the topping lift depends on how much you use it - I've chartered boats where it could be pretty much left at a fixed length, whereas mine need to be let well out when sailing and hence pulling one in is vital before reefing or dropping the sail.

    For what it's worth, here's what's on my coachroof, port to starboard:

    Main peak halyard
    2nd reef clew
    2nd reef tack
    Port topping lift
    [hatch]
    Stbd topping lift
    1st reef tack
    1st reef clew
    Main throat halyard.

    I've tried to lead the kicker aft too, but it's tricky to get a good lead over my coachroof. Currently I don't have a kicker and rely on my heavy wooden boom, but I do mean to sort it out eventually.

    Pete

  4. #4
    vyv_cox's Avatar
    vyv_cox is online now Registered User
    Location : North Wales, sailing Aegean Sea or Menai Strait
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    I have converted two boats, GK29 and Sadler 34, to all lines to cockpit. I tried to be logical, so have main halyard, topping lift, two reefing pennants (single line), lazyjacks and a spare genoa halyard on port side, spinnaker halyard, pole uphaul, pole downhaul, genoa, kicker, main outhaul to starboard.

    If you retain ramshorns for reefing the tack then it makes far more sense to keep the clew pennants at the mast as well, but then you will have problems with setting the halyard length so the tack doesn't fall off as you walk back to the cockpit. In the end it's easier to bring everything back and you (and your crew) will be very pleased you did.

    Originally I didn't bother bringing the kicker back but that was a PITA as well, so I brought that too.

    My reefing arrangement is shown at http://coxengineering.co.uk/single.aspx
    Answers to some technical queries at http://coxengineering.sharepoint.com

  5. #5
    Jeannius's Avatar
    Jeannius is offline Registered User
    Location : Worcester, U.K.
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    I brought main halyard, 2 reef, outhaul and topping lift back to my cockpit and added a downhaul as well. This was in preparation for a shorthanded circumnavigation.

    I wouldn't bother with the spinnaker halyard as -as someone else said - you'll almost certainly still have to go on deck to do something else to a spinnaker. I don't have a kicker but if I did, I probably wouldn't have bothered bringing that back.

    Topping lift... I had to bring mine back as there is a big difference in the position needed between full sail and full reef.

    I had a custom mast bracket made to take 6 blocks and provide a fair lead. 2 x 3 way deck organisers added to the coachroof and 6 new clutches added. My existing sheet winches are in the right place so didn't need new winches.

  6. #6
    Seajet's Avatar
    Seajet is offline Registered User
    Location : West Sussex / Hants
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    I run all the lines back to the cockpit.

    One top tip is to use ball bearing blocks whenever possible, yes even on a 28' boat; expensive, but you only fit once.

    I was lucky in finding ball bearing deck organisers, but these don't seem to be available now, so I'd suggest Spinlock who do organisers which are flexible and will fit on cambered decks if required, or more 'normal' good quality kit - I'd recommend their XAS clutches too.

    I have yet to see mainsail reefing from the cockpit which I'd really trust, so just have the leach lines led aft, requiring briefly going on deck to pull the reef luff onto the hook.

    I have 8 lines led aft via 4-way organisers, and could easily use 10 lines...

    As the saying goes, in case of interest my boat's layout is, port outer to stbd;

    main halliard

    spinnaker halliard

    topping lift

    clew outhaul

    ---

    reef 1

    reef 2

    pole uphaul

    foresail halliard
    -----------

    Note reef 3 has to be rigged if in heavy weather, and the kicker is accessed directly, this being a 22' boat.

    One of the most useful things to lead aft is the topping lift, to enable tensioning when crew are on deck hanging onto the boom in a seaway, lowering the main.

    The exit sheaves in the mast are double ball bearing blocks, so the lines run between sheaves & friction top & bottom is dealt with.
    Last edited by Seajet; 24-06-11 at 10:41.
    Anderson 22 Owners Association www.anderson22class.co.uk

  7. #7
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    Many thanks for all the replies. I was thinking of Main haliard, both reef clews and tacks and topping lift as 'essential'. I'll probably leave the spinnaker for the moment, as I don't yet have clutches, and I can add more of those as finances allow. The way I figure it, at the moment, I'd like to get her set up with the 'heavy weather' lines to the cockpit for safety - I can rig for light wind sails later.

    Again, cheers.

  8. #8
    prv is offline Registered User
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seajet View Post
    I have yet to see mainsail reefing from the cockpit which I'd really trust, so just have the leach lines led aft, requiring briefly going on deck to pull the reef luff onto the hook.
    I'm curious what you wouldn't trust about a tack pendant led aft.

    Pete

  9. #9
    Lady Campanula is offline Registered User
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    Quote Originally Posted by vyv_cox View Post

    If you retain ramshorns for reefing the tack..... then you will have problems with setting the halyard length so the tack doesn't fall off as you walk back to the cockpit.
    There's an easy fix for that.

    Replace the ramshorns and the through-bolt they're attached to with an s/s eyebolt and an eye-nut, then attach a pair of s/s snaplinks.

    Secure together a pair of small s/s rings, either side of the mainsail, at each reef tack-eye by means of a length of 12mm polyester tape - or cord - passed through, tied and/or sewn secure. I believe sailmakers call these 'spectacles.

    Use the reefing line(s) to pull down the required reef and lock off with jammers on the coachroof. Should the reef need to be left in for a lengthy period, avoid chafe on the tack line by clipping the snaplink to the relevant 'spectacle' ring, ease the pendant until the load is on the snaplink/spectacle, then adjust the halyard tension.

    In the end it's easier to bring everything back and you.... will be very pleased you did.
    FWIW, when a reef is to be left in for some time, I always rig a webbing strop through the pulled-down reef clew-ring and around the boom a couple of times, to take the leech load and the chafe.


  10. #10
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    Jan 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seajet View Post
    I was lucky in finding ball bearing deck organisers, but these don't seem to be available now
    What about http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/item/419...eck-organisers from Jimmy Green ?

    Boo2

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