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  1. #161
    vas's Avatar
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    well done Alf!
    sounds good, hope you have an uneventful summer

    V.

  2. #162
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    well done Alf,
    can perfectly imagine what a big relief for the good result
    after so much hard work,

    and you prooved that with some patience, carefull and hard work,
    YOU can manage a serious and thorrow rebuild on DD's
    congratulations !

  3. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divemaster1 View Post
    Our engines are straight six's... so no V configuration ... correct label is 6/71 TIA.

    Deliberately did not go for a boat with the "B" configuration as they have a bypass and rated at 2600 RPM and up to 485 hp... for the reasons you state in respect to reliability.

    Take your point about the weight to HP ratio, but as I did not have any intention of pushing the 30 knot barrier and was going for an older boat with high displacement with abilit to keep reasonable speeds in rough sea, and with low maintenance cost, the DD's became a preferred option in the ranges we were looking...

    If I were to change engines in our current boat, I'd be tempted by Cummins CTA's at 450 hp..., but would be woried about the boat's dynamics and how it would affect it's behavior at sea as I would loose about 1000 Kg...
    Apologies Alf,

    Now you know why I stay away from DD as well as Green engines. Only inline DD I have ever come across was a 4-53 in a Dutch barge I repowered. 4-53 was a sweet little motor.

    Interesting you refer to 6CTA, rarely crops up, plenty in commercial use and replaced CAT 3208 in Flemings, a real no nonsense workhorse.

    Good luck

  4. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latestarter1 View Post
    as well as Green engines

  5. #165
    Divemaster1's Avatar
    Divemaster1 is offline Registered User
    Location : Aberdeenshire, Scotland
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    Need to clean up, and work a bit on replacing carpets etc. (getting old anyway).

    However, I thought I should post something about the cost of the re-build. Bearing in mind it was made more expensive than absolutely required as I did choose to replace full liner and piston. (Intent is to replace piston crown and rings on old piston and keep this & liner as cheap and readily available spare parts).

    Anyway:

    1x Cylinder repair kit (Piston, rings, liner, clamshell bearings, cylinder head guide stud and full set of seals for an engine re-build) 480
    Replaced bolts, nuts etc. 10
    2x Replaced coolant pipes (pictured and one more 1" x 2 foot) 60
    New Oil 60
    Coolant 50
    New Torque wrench 35

    Total cost 695 inclusive of VAT

    I could have saved about 250, by going for piston crown & rings only, but now I have available spares in case something happens again...

    Edit: cylinder head guide stud added to the re-build kit (was included in the cost)
    Last edited by Divemaster1; 06-05-12 at 22:13.
    Regards, Alf

    I've stopped drinking water .... I have seen what it does to the bottom of our boat!

    "The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire."

  6. #166
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divemaster1 View Post
    Need to clean up, and work a bit on replacing carpets etc. (getting old anyway).

    However, I thought I should post something about the cost of the re-build. Bearing in mind it was made more expensive than absolutely required as I did choose to replace full liner and piston. (Intent is to replace piston crown and rings on old piston and keep this & liner as cheap and readily available spare parts).

    Anyway:

    1x Cylinder repair kit (Piston, rings, liner, clamshell bearings, and full set of seals for an engine re-build) 480
    Replaced bolts, nuts etc. 10
    2x Replaced coolant pipes (pictured and one more 1" x 2 foot) 60
    New Oil 60
    Coolant 50
    New Torque wrench 35

    Total cost 695 inclusive of VAT

    I could have saved about 250, by going for piston crown & rings only, but now I have available spares in case something happens again...
    Wow! Next time I need two engines rebuilt I know who to go to This isn't much more than just one piston replacement for my engines

  7. #167
    Divemaster1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seahope View Post
    Wow! Next time I need two engines rebuilt I know who to go to This isn't much more than just one piston replacement for my engines
    As a fellow consultant I feel it fair to ask if you're willing to pay my current day rate on top of the parts ?
    Regards, Alf

    I've stopped drinking water .... I have seen what it does to the bottom of our boat!

    "The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire."

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divemaster1 View Post
    As a fellow consultant I feel it fair to ask if you're willing to pay my current day rate on top of the parts ?
    Unfortunately, I am still PAYE so I couldn't afford that as the Government almost take as much money from my earnings as I take home In only another year or so I expect to go back to contracting and switching to keeping most of my income and of course no longer having to work ridiculous hours just to keep my job.
    Last edited by Seahope; 05-05-12 at 20:43.

  9. #169
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    Default More for Syd

    Quote Originally Posted by syd View Post
    Superb Alf. Scary but suberb
    Looks like Syd is heading for a re-tune, so will continue with some pictures and illustrations:

    1) remove bits that cover rocker cover, then remove this.... (PM sent on tools needed)
    Last edited by Divemaster1; 07-01-13 at 14:05.
    Regards, Alf

    I've stopped drinking water .... I have seen what it does to the bottom of our boat!

    "The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire."

  10. #170
    Divemaster1's Avatar
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    Then remove the idle screw cover from governor (as discribed in PM ....oil in here so be prepared and not surprised when leaking).



    And undo the locking nut (11mm) whilst holding the bolt steady with an allen key (cannot recall the size) ...

    Back off idle screw a couple of mm...

    ....

    Then loosen the “buffer screw” ... the one with a locking bolt next to the oil supply line on this picture, and back off a couple of mm.. (you won’t have to open the cover)



    Disconnect the cables (including stop solenoid) and lock the levers to “no fuel” ... throttle should do this by default, but “no fuel” on stop leaver may have to be taped up or tied back with a cable...

    The “Stop” lever is the one to the far right in this picture... and needs to be lifted up...

    Last edited by Divemaster1; 07-05-12 at 21:13.
    Regards, Alf

    I've stopped drinking water .... I have seen what it does to the bottom of our boat!

    "The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire."

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