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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Volos-Athens
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    4,678

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    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    Wow, I'm impressed!
    Messing with an engine ECU surely ain't trivial, what other hobbies do you have, French oboe, brain surgery and aerobatics?
    not allowed to have many hobbies now I'm afraid and I try to have one hard(ish) and dirty hobby at a time - so this year it's going to be MiToS. Most others are soft(ware) hobbies typically left unfinished, as in house BMS system still having some bugs that I never seem to have the time to fix (and annoy on a regular basis the wife), but I need to explain the whole story to appreciate and have a good laugh and I wont do it now
    Similarly the fiat tuning is not finished yet, should be able to reach 350+@1.5bar, but happy with 330@1.2bar

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    I can see why your daughter is thrilled by the ride, mine was already exhilarating with the stock engine... awfully understeering, up to 3rd gear...
    Incidentally, talking of mk1 and mk2, the 20V engine was actually a 5, not 6 cylinders.
    eibach springs, polybushed front wishbones, koni shocks, ferrari front calipers on custom rotors, on 17inch alloys, so handled okish. Yep, true 5cyl not 6, finger slipped on tiny netbook keyboard, apologies

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    Thread drifter, who, me?
    yes us! and I have no updates as I'm recovering from a flu that kept me inside the last two gorgeous days with temps up to 22C, sunshine and no wind (raining today...)

    cheers

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    4,768

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    Quote Originally Posted by virtuvas View Post

    Rough list of work to do before I start:

    Interior:
    • Knock down the crew room at the bow
    • dismantle main front double cabin
    • shift two heads to the port
    • convert the space occupied by the two heads to a third cabin
    • add black water tank
    • refit the lot
    • redo all electrics (35yo already)


    machineroom:
    • remove, clean all heat exchangers
    • rebuilt turbo(s)
    • re-pipe exhausts with risers or traps
    • service gennie (slow starting at the mo)


    exterior:
    • replace decks all around
    • restore all alloy and stainless fittings
    • rebuilt windlass
    • redesign flybridge (both helm and overall layout)


    hull:
    • clean everything
    • check plywood for rot
    • prime/restore/replace as necessary
    • finish
    • a/f

    jeeze
    thats a long list, not much left that will be untouched
    I'm impressed that you want do take this challenge, and do all the work by yourselve, and that in ... 6 months time

    this is a very nice project, it is like restorating a oldtimer car,
    I wish I had character and time to do something like this

    Respect to you V,

    sorry for the tread drift
    I have no week spot for Ital. cars,
    but Ital. boats on the other hand

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    up on the moors.
    Posts
    33,098

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    It may be that you took the pic of the boat on her stands at an early stage, but I'd be inclined to beef up the supports and make them less vulnerable to vibration from working inside - or even from earthquakes (there was a big one there in 1955) .

    Sorry to rain on your parade...
    I think, therefore I am. I am, therefore I sail.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Volos-Athens
    Posts
    4,678

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    Quote Originally Posted by sarabande View Post
    It may be that you took the pic of the boat on her stands at an early stage, but I'd be inclined to beef up the supports and make them less vulnerable to vibration from working inside - or even from earthquakes (there was a big one there in 1955) .

    Sorry to rain on your parade...
    True,

    there are a few more supports there right now and tbh if another earthquake as the 55one comes, MiToS is going to be on the bottom of my worry list after family, friends and house.
    I'm a pessimist but you beat me to it

    V

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Volos-Athens
    Posts
    4,678

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    having recovered from a cold I picked up from the kids, I had another 3hours on the boat this afternoon.

    So finished off removing the stbrd side of the main cabin (drawers, linings, etc) and it now looks like that:



    Fortunately, there isn't the mess found on the port side hence it's in better nick.



    Slightly stuck on removing (without destroying!) the ceiling lining which is nice 200mm strips of somesort of thin plywood padded and lined with vinyl. Ended up removing the 3 lights to the bow and I'm searching for clues on how to remove.

    Cleaning of the insides of the hull will be the next task in the list once the crew cabin is emptied and the partition to the main cabin removed.
    So, on this front, did some clearing and dismantling there as well:





    Oddly, there's the 20mm (or thereabouts) plywood, lined on the maincabin side whereas on the crew cabin side there's a softish pulp type of thing (around 10-12mm) and a MDF board of 8mm on top. No idea why they got all that added (it's not factory fitted imho) Maybe sound insulation...




    And a couple of photos I liked.

    First one whilst working in the crew cabin, halfway immersed in it through the hatch looking back to the fb



    and finally leaving at dusk, a photo of the city from the aft deck


    Should be able to spend a few hours tomorrow and a few hours on monday as well.

    cheers

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Volos-Athens
    Posts
    4,678

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    spend another 4hours today with the help of a friend and finished of the crew cabin (as in removed moreorless everything out of there)
    Cut a reasonable size hole in the partition between the double berth cabin and the crew cabin. Things look ok, will need another morning to clear all the mess and access situation. Didn't have a camera with me and so no pics but will do that tomorrow and post them.

    Ah, got all the chain off the locker, it's 75m, so good for 20m deep anchoring Areas I will be spending time are around 4-6m deep so no probs there. Chain was twisted somewhere halfway through the length and windlass stopped again in the same way that I reported on the delivery trip. Wasn't spinning (obviously!) but even with the clutch slack, the rope thing wasn't rotating Will bring it home tomorrow and dismantle it check if everything is fine and order a set of gaskets if nothing else is broken

    Finally, got the original light fixings off the ceiling of the main cabin and took one home for investigation. For some v.odd reason someone had sprayed (?) some sort of yellow paint inside on the stainless thus making it dull and not reflective, go figure. Seems it's a straight forward job of replacing the bayonette fixture with something else that will be cheaper on leds. Will see what fits and keeps the light source centered in the assembly.



    That's it for now, more pics tomorrow eve.

    cheers

    V.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    4,768

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    Quote Originally Posted by virtuvas View Post
    ........ Seems it's a straight forward job of replacing the bayonette fixture with something else that will be cheaper on leds. .
    for the main lights in the cabin, I wouldn't choose LED lights,
    halogen, or bulb lights give warm, and much nicer light characteristics then LED's.

    for effect-, indirect-, or courtesy lights,
    LED's are ok though
    (all IMHO)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Volos-Athens
    Posts
    4,678

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    Quote Originally Posted by BartW View Post
    for the main lights in the cabin, I wouldn't choose LED lights,
    halogen, or bulb lights give warm, and much nicer light characteristics then LED's.

    for effect-, indirect-, or courtesy lights,
    LED's are ok though
    (all IMHO)
    agree Bart,

    will only replace them with warm white leds - not the awful cool white (as in blueish) harsh leds you typically get. I'm pretty sure there are available it's just a matter of fixing, voltage (has to be 24V capable preferably) size and price. We shall see what lighting specialists say.

    V.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Cote d'Azur
    Posts
    3,005

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    Quote Originally Posted by BartW View Post
    for the main lights in the cabin, I wouldn't choose LED lights,
    halogen, or bulb lights give warm, and much nicer light characteristics then LED's.

    for effect-, indirect-, or courtesy lights,
    LED's are ok though
    (all IMHO)
    I would suggest you are not quite up to speed on the latest LED lamps.

    Philips do a great range of warm white 2700k GU10 and GU5.3 lamps called MasterLed. There are now many excellent choices for cabin lighting and they are available in warm white as well as other colour temperatures. They will also obviously reduce your connected load.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Jersey/Antibes
    Posts
    22,358

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    Quote Originally Posted by wakeup View Post
    I would suggest you are not quite up to speed on the latest LED lamps.

    Philips do a great range of warm white 2700k GU10 and GU5.3 lamps called MasterLed. There are now many excellent choices for cabin lighting and they are available in warm white as well as other colour temperatures. They will also obviously reduce your connected load.
    Do they have high enough CRI wakeup to create the right "feel" inside the boat?

    (note to readers - Wakeup is expert in this stuff)

    Edit - I just whizzed through the catalogue. Thnaks for the pointer. CRI is claimed >80%, which er is the minimum you'd want tbh. But the G4s, which I would need and I think many boats incl MiToS would need, only come in 12v not 24v, grrr, so far as I can see. GU10 is no use on a boat and many boat light fittings won't take GU5.3 either
    Last edited by jfm; 13-12-11 at 20:28.

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