Page 4 of 148 FirstFirst 1234567891454104 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 1473
  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Cote d'Azur
    Posts
    3,005

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_H View Post
    I just bought a stack of the Phillips MasterLED for the house (to meet building regs), in 240V GU10 guise. I agree they're better than older LED, but they're still no match for halogen in my opinion. The light is still too flat, and has an unpleasant pinky tinge, so I changed 'em all back once the inspector had gone.

    The other problem is that although they're dimmable, they dim by just going... err... dimmer. Halogen lights also go more yellow as they dim, which gives a nicer light, again in my opinion.

    Unless the 24V versions are a lot better, I wouldn't consider them on the boat yet
    Nick,

    I am surprised at your experience with the masterleds. What colour temperature were you using? I've seen dozens of pepsi challenges with these lamps and very convincing results.

    You are right that halogen colour temperature gets warmer as they are dimmed. There are a number of industry developments underway to mimic this but the solution won't be cheap in the near future.

    By the way the LEDs do not dim, they are pulsed quickly on and off and the dimmer you require them the longer the off pulse thus giving the effect of dimmer light. There are two methods to control this PWM and PAM (pulse width modulation and pulse amplitude modulation) PWM IP is completely owned by Philips for the LED market.

    You can retrofit LED light engines rather than retro fit lamps. This will give a better result but will be an engineering challenge depending upon the fixture.
    Last edited by wakeup; 14-12-11 at 16:26.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    Jersey/Antibes
    Posts
    22,350

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nick_H View Post
    I just bought a stack of the Phillips MasterLED for the house (to meet building regs), in 240V GU10 guise. I agree they're better than older LED, but they're still no match for halogen in my opinion. The light is still too flat, and has an unpleasant pinky tinge, so I changed 'em all back once the inspector had gone.

    The other problem is that although they're dimmable, they dim by just going... err... dimmer. Halogen lights also go more yellow as they dim, which gives a nicer light, again in my opinion.

    Unless the 24V versions are a lot better, I wouldn't consider them on the boat yet
    Hmm. I'm with you on this Nick. There is a little way to go before the market offers LEDs that are nice enough (though that's subjective, I accept) to compete with halogen. I have seen the stuff Wakeup has been involved with (he demo-ed it to me once!), and that is proper stuff where you buy the whole shebang (an "engine" in fact!) rather than a replacement bulb, and all the heat is carefully managed, and it is great gear and you'd like it, but it is also pretty expensive gear. I wouldn't dream of using on my boat the bedazzled type stuff that Mapis linked to - chinese junk built down to a price

    The MasterLED claim is >80% CRI, which I guess means 80.1%. I doubt you will be happy with less than 90-95 to be honest, if you dislike the "flat" look

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    4,764

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jfm View Post
    There is a little way to go before the market offers LEDs that are nice enough (though that's subjective, I accept) to compete with halogen.
    exactly,


    Quote Originally Posted by jfm View Post
    The MasterLED claim is >80% CRI, which I guess means 80.1%. I doubt you will be happy with less than 90-95 to be honest, if you dislike the "flat" look
    looking at the CRI demo picture in the Cantalupi brochure page 12, then I have to agree that a CRI <95 isn't good enough for main interior lights.
    nevertheless some nice stuff in that brochure !

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    16,946

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BartW View Post
    Which model did you order? I canít find a model that would be ok in this housing:...
    I used the 44mm disk shaped bulbs, because my lights are much wider than yours. But I don't have any pics.
    Maybe, and I stress maybe, those called "tower type" on that website could fit your housings.
    You could try, as I did, just a couple of them: aside from checking if they fit, you can use them in parallel to the old bulbs and see if if you like them, before buying as many as you need.
    In the worst case, you'll have thrown away a few euros...

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    16,946

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wakeup View Post
    OK, I have to say, having looked at Mapis's Bedazzled links, that I wouldn't rush out and buy those if it were me. Anyone who advertises 'now EMI Free' should be avoided.
    LOL, would you prefer some "EMI intensive" components?
    Jokes aside, I see what you mean. Btw, that statement wasn't there yet when I bought my bulbs, IIRC.
    Anyway, I neither asked you or anyone else to rush out and buy anything, nor I have any connection with that supplier.
    I tried them, found that they did what they said on the tin, and that their light was good enough for me.
    Life's too short to wait for nuclear fission led bulbs imho, but each to their own!

    PS: Interesting summary anyway, thanks for enlightening us.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    4,764

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    You could try, as I did, just a couple of them: aside from checking if they fit, you can use them in parallel to the old bulbs and see if if you like
    Yes I will try some models.
    in the machine room and utility room, E27 fittings, I don't care about the light quality.
    thanks for the link.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Cote d'Azur
    Posts
    3,005

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    I used the 44mm disk shaped bulbs, because my lights are much wider than yours. But I don't have any pics.
    Maybe, and I stress maybe, those called "tower type" on that website could fit your housings.
    You could try, as I did, just a couple of them: aside from checking if they fit, you can use them in parallel to the old bulbs and see if if you like them, before buying as many as you need.
    In the worst case, you'll have thrown away a few euros...
    The way the euro is going then probably no great shakes to buy two for every lamp holder :-)

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    Cote d'Azur
    Posts
    3,005

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    LOL, would you prefer some "EMI intensive" components?
    Jokes aside, I see what you mean. Btw, that statement wasn't there yet when I bought my bulbs, IIRC.
    Anyway, I neither asked you or anyone else to rush out and buy anything, nor I have any connection with that supplier.
    I tried them, found that they did what they said on the tin, and that their light was good enough for me.
    Life's too short to wait for nuclear fission led bulbs imho, but each to their own!

    PS: Interesting summary anyway, thanks for enlightening us.
    I was eluding to the fact that they probably haven't been tested to various ce and enc standards and therefore anything could happen once plugged in including interference with your nav and comma gear!

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Volos-Athens
    Posts
    4,663

    Default

    wakeup, thanks for the analysis, some good points made, and I think we must all be v.careful not only on EMI and driver circuit, but heat dissipation.

    I wonder if there is/will be a 24V 8-12smd assembly WITH a heatsink at the back that could retrofit to our light fittings...
    OTOH, going for low consumption, I could easily change with something similar to MM all the bathroom and cabin lights, maybe leave halogens in the salon and helm/galley. I've only got 20 of them to replace so in a much better state than Bart

    Regarding the Philips masterled series, in my home office room I now have 3 of them 7W 2.7K Kelvin dimmable ones and although the light is not perfect, it's good for working and it's much cooler (tempwise as during the summer there was a point that the small low height room would heat up from the halogens). Dimming also doesn't work extremely well, as they sort of die somewhere south of 50%...

    Anyway, if you don't mind me reporting some more progress, I spend couple of mornings disassembling and removing more **** and today got my Nikon with me and took some better pics.

    Halfway through removing the partition between main cabin and crew cabin (only 12mm ply btw)


    and then all of it removed. Well, not quite all, there's lots of rusted screws/nails securing this plywood panel to the structural members of the hull and I decided to cut it this way and later on cut the remains in small pieces and lever out the nails, or cut the heads off the screws with my dremmel...



    Removing the lining of the crew cabin, I realised it was double lined, with original panels (quite rotten), 4mm hardboard and an extra 8mm strong good quality ply on top. Underneath all that, there is a fair amount of rot on a couple of the 20x80mm beams supporting the teak deck on the bow and there's rain water seeping in from a few spots, running down the plywood which is now wet and soft on a few spots mainly on the port side way above the waterline and above the top hard chine. Next series of photos show the condition of the hull plywood on the port side:











    and a couple on the condition on the stbrd side:






    Working from the top, I removed the white stripped lining on the port side and found a fair amount of damp but not soft or rotten plywood underneath. Most of the water seems to be coming in from the bolt securing the curved alloy ending of the slanted sundeck (if that's the right way to describe it...)
    Digging around trying to find sound wood I ended up with a 30x60mm hole. Closed it temporarily and will let it dry whilst I'm removing the ceiling lining of the main cabin and the insulation that's there.




    Will have to remove all these thin wooden strips on the sundeck (unfortunately they are supported on dowels, so the deck will be full of holes after this operation...) and I'm thinking if I should be replacing the whole plywood on the sundeck, although it looks like most of it is sound and only the last 10-15cm and at the corners it's gone soft.

    Will also have to assess if the port side hull plywood that's gone soft has to be replaced and how.

    Finally have to investigate the layup of material on the bow and sides as on top of the original teak deck they have bolted marine plywood and put this white strippy thing that I'm about to remove. I wouldn't mind laying my new teak veneer (5-6mm thick) on top of this plywood, BUT the idiots have bolted it down with non ss bolts (at least some of them, could be galvanised woodscrews). Have to remove a few bolts and investigate further. Else I'll have to resort to the original plan which was to remove the lot and lay new plywood and the teak veneer on top of it.

    So w/e is exploration time and lots of decisions to be made.

    Ah, took a photo of my anchor as well, could someone be kind enough to tell me what it is (am I right in thinking its a Bruce clone?)
    Says HKQ 15Kg, Made in China:



    FWIW, half the crafts in the area use similar designs and no, I'm not going to post on scuttlebutt or liveaboard asking if it's a good anchor

    V.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Stratford on Avon
    Posts
    11,048

    Default

    Good going V. Is the rot and decay about what you expected, or have you uncovered some Oh Sh!t moments?

Page 4 of 148 FirstFirst 1234567891454104 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Latest YBW News

Find Boats For Sale

to
to