Not much isnt galvanised surely? The brakes-well they are totally disposable. The roller nuts and bolts.. so what... front whell.. £15? Thats about it,isnt it?
Re JFM and galvanising.. only what I heard but it isnt so easy these days as there are now a zillion H+S rules putting the bloke and his the shed out of business?
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Thread: Protecting a trailer
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25-01-12, 16:16 #11
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25-01-12, 16:24 #12
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To some extent you're right.
But on my last one, things like the backs of the hubs, the ends of the roller posts, the brake cables etc etc....
I know it's not a lot to replace that kind of thing, but it's hassle - if they don't rust in the first place - well that's got to be better I'd think.Why can't we work 2 days a week and boat the other 5????
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25-01-12, 17:09 #13
Good enough for Boeing
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ACF50-ACF-50...7511189&sr=8-1
this is the stuff you need"It was the crew's fault"
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25-01-12, 18:17 #14
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25-01-12, 18:52 #15
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Can't imagine waxoyl would harm galvanizing. I have used waxoyl on various bits of bright plated stuff like zinc plate on bolts, pipes and engine mounts for years. It's certainly had no detrimental affect. It has preserved them like new in fact.
On the galvanized chassis I would say waxoyl applied inside the chassis members (presuming them to be hollow sections) and perhaps any rough bits at welds would be a good idea. Do they sill make the waxoyl pump/spray kits for doing inside chassis sections ?
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25-01-12, 20:40 #16
Read somewhere that spraying with WD40 and then rubbing with wire wool brought galvanised bits back nice and shiny. I did spray mine with duck oil just a few days ago, doesn't make it sticky but does help protect it.
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25-01-12, 21:29 #17
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gjgm
That is the plan actually.
I want to set it up so I only have to get the tyres (not the rims or hubs) in the water.
I intend to have it set up so that the trailer is a bit too long for the boat, the axles are set further forward so that when it sits on the trailer there is about 1.5m of trailer and rollers behind the boat.
Once in place on the slip, I want to have it set up so that the rear roller is near the surface of the water, but nothing else is in - then let the boat "roll" off (controlled by winch of course).
Hopefully this will save the brakes and hubs, which are the most expensive to replace.Why can't we work 2 days a week and boat the other 5????
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25-01-12, 23:01 #18
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25-01-12, 23:31 #19
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26-01-12, 08:11 #20
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I have had several trailers from new and the only trailer I would recommend is built by RM Trailers. The bearings are sealed for life, the water flushing kit offered works well - flushes the saltwater out of the brakes, the brake cables are the open type and do not seize up. But like anything it has to well looked after - washed down immediately after every immersion.


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