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  1. #71
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    if your vise will open wide enough.
    use 2 sockets one small-one large.
    then you can press the uj out with the vise.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by moonraker 36 View Post
    if your vise will open wide enough.
    use 2 sockets one small-one large.
    then you can press the uj out with the vise.
    thanks for this.. prompted me to consult YouTube and there's a guys that shows this method really well.. looks the way to go.. thanks again
    Beauty's in the eye of the beer holder

  3. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by oGaryo View Post
    Hi James, have you got to the bottom of your issue?
    pm sent...


    for everyone else,
    basically spent 5 hours yesterday tracking down leak and with the aid of UV fluid and UV light and pressurising the gearbox found output seal leaking. So not the gearbox casing as we were worried about... but gearbox out job... so not good news...

  4. #74

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    Sorry to hear about your problem, although it's so good to see everyone pulling together to help you out.

    Having read this thread, I was going to book a flight to go see a boat I'm interested in buying but when I called my mechanic friend he told me "with twin stern drives on a old boat, you could become my best customer" so sadly, I don't know if I could afford it.....

    On the other hand, I'm not that handy around engines but I guess if it's your own, you learn pretty quickly.....?

    I hope you get her back in soon, there's still plenty of season to be enjoyed yet!

  5. #75
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    thanks BM the 1st

    Resourceful lots us boaty folk... cross bearings are coming out a treat with this method.. benefits of using a large adjustable spanner on the bearing cap end is the vice doesn't have to open so far and you can see the bearing cap coming through.. using a large socket obscures it. the large spanner is purely for leverage and the smaller socket obviously used to push the bearing through. no heating required, the extra pressure from the heavy duty vice is enough to push it through.

    Beauty's in the eye of the beer holder

  6. #76
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    I've used this method on prop shafts with good results Gary. Good luck with the rebuild.

  7. #77
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    thanks RAF

    First cap now out of its casing ready for the maul grips... Roy, this was the one that we attacked with the blow torch and C Clamp... just needed to be introduced to the vice squad

    Beauty's in the eye of the beer holder

  8. #78
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    Another method I was taught , for car propshafts, is to lay the shaft along your arm with the UJ hanging free just beyond your hand which is holding the propshaft, then tap the yoke with a hammer(and yes I mean "tap"). This followed a lot of pushing, shoving and pressing with sockets and hitting with large hammers. It works despite appearing to be a very soft approach.

  9. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by oGaryo View Post
    thanks RAF

    First cap now out of its casing ready for the maul grips... Roy, this was the one that we attacked with the blow torch and C Clamp... just needed to be introduced to the vice squad

    BLIMEY Gary !!!!!......i bet there are bits of the Titanic with less rust on !!!!!!.......glad there is positive progress...GREAT THREAD n pics n descriptive detail..just hope it does,nt happen to mine !!!!!

  10. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by STEVEDUNSTABLE View Post
    BLIMEY Gary !!!!!......i bet there are bits of the Titanic with less rust on !!!!!!.....!!!!!
    look worse in the picture than in reality to be honest Steve, a scrub up to reomve the old chipped paint and will treat it with rust inhibitor then repaint and it'll be a good a new
    Beauty's in the eye of the beer holder

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