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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    on the move
    Posts
    368

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Quote Originally Posted by sailaboutvic View Post
    Only other thing I would add is he breaker size , we fitted a Cayman which we had no end of problem with it tripping the breaker , Lofrans say it needs an 100a breaker ,
    After hour of trying to sort the problem myself and then calling two different so call engineer which suggested the problem lied else where , that in the end a guy who fitted no end of windlass took a look and say he uses 120A breaker .
    So I Change the breaker and my problems have gone .
    Since Then I have spoken to two other company's who fit Lofrans and they both said the same .

    One other thing wireless winch remote you can buy of eBay , there work fine , but bewhere once you take our finger of the button , the winch will run on for a few more second .
    Well, many thanks for that, as it is the caymen I am getting, and I was just about to order the 100a.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    UK East Coast
    Posts
    30,237

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Quote Originally Posted by sailaboutvic View Post

    One other thing wireless winch remote you can buy of eBay , there work fine , but bewhere once you take our finger of the button , the winch will run on for a few more second .
    True, there's a slight delay in switching off, but I'd say it was half a second or so rather than several seconds.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    The land of sun
    Posts
    3,880

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Quote Originally Posted by pvb View Post
    True, there's a slight delay in switching off, but I'd say it was half a second or so rather than several seconds.
    Ok I never counted the second but there was at less three good turns on the windlass in mine enough to take your fingers off if you got it caught , or get top ripped off

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    The land of sun
    Posts
    3,880

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Quote Originally Posted by richardh10 View Post
    Well, many thanks for that, as it is the caymen I am getting, and I was just about to order the 100a.
    End of the day it's up to you , mine is 1000w motor and with a 10mm chain and a 25 kg anchor we found it would trip more often then not , and I not talking about break an anchor out , you will find some posting here ,
    Last edited by sailaboutvic; 23-10-17 at 13:48.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Hopefully somewhere warm
    Posts
    6,794

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Mines a 1000w kobra, 100a breaker will go if you rapidly change direction but otherwise it never trips.

    Another plus for adding a remote while you're at it, can be really handy. Costs little, I've had a garage door remote in use for years, not even changed the battery in the remote yet.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    The Earth but normally in the place of the high stream some where in Perthshire
    Posts
    1,786

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    The quick remote is just a spring loaded 3 position toggle switch On up On down middle off .
    Got from maplins for about 7 quid . Much cheaper . I have 3 positions

    Deck foot switch
    Pilot house toggle
    cockpit toggle

    Simples
    Ah, gentle dames! it gars me greet ,
    To think how mony counsels sweet,
    How mony lengthened sage advices,
    The husband frae the wife despises.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,403

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Quote Originally Posted by catmandoo View Post
    The quick remote is just a spring loaded 3 position toggle switch On up On down middle off .
    Got from maplins for about 7 quid . Much cheaper .
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253164775067 : spring-loaded 3-position toggle switch. Returns to middle 'off' position; hold up or down to operate windlass. I spent 99p.

    EDIT: I see I misunderstood the purpose of your switch: to enable or disable your wireless remote to access the solenoid, not to actually control the solenoid directly. So you don't want this sort of spring-loaded toggle switch; but a similar, waterproof two-position SPDT switch will do if you're switching the supply to the remote receiver, or SPDT if you want to interrupt both outputs of the remote receiver. The point is, you can still pay <1 for the switch!

    Depending on the type of garage door remote control you use, you may need to make it operate a relay at the bow which in turn operates the solenoid to the windlass: those solenoids can consume quite a current.
    Last edited by BelleSerene; 24-10-17 at 19:26.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Scotland / Norway
    Posts
    1,529

    Default Re: Wiring my windlass

    Our previous windlass had a simple deck switch -operating a relay to handle the higher operating current. Dead simple. There was also an isolating switch and a thermal cut out in the main line. I fitted a wireless remote for <20 as a back up for the deck switch. Effectively a wireless relay operating the main windlass relay. Worked fine.

    New boat has a bi-directional windlass- with an anchor locker remote hand control. The contactor/relay for the up/down switching mechanism is about a 10cm cube -and seriously expensive. When retrieve stopped working I swapped the 2 coils over as a temporary fix. The easy solution was to replace the contactor with two separate 12V x 200A relays. For all of about 25. If the relay can handle the current I see no reason to go for OEM solutions. We haven't bothered with wireless on the new boat. I would much rather be at the locker when chain is coming in!

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