Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Sant Carles de la Ràpita
    Posts
    6,118

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Can someone post a link to the plastic fittings that you are suggesting.
    Just interested.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    New Forest
    Posts
    85

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Where I bought mine from. No connection etc........

    https://www.leesan.com/shop/seacock-kits

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    ation, Loc: ation, Loc: ation.
    Posts
    12,917

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Further discussion and link here Mike: http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread...lacement/page2.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    14,468

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Quote Originally Posted by petem View Post
    More importantly, will you go for plastic fittings?
    Thanks for the language tuning P, free EN lessons are one of the reasons why I like the asylum!
    Ref your question above, nope, but not because I've anything against them.
    It's just that the bronze stuff I've got is still fine - all from 2004 original construction, fwiw.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Guernsey
    Posts
    2,848

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Ref skin fittings and valves

    Do you know for certain whether the fittings are Bronze, DZR or brass?

    A lot of fittings used in that era by otherwise good boat builders were brass with nickle coated brass used on occasions especially for the balls of ball valves.
    Should you have an incident with a failed skin fitting or valve (fittings) your insurance would inspect all fittings and if your fittings were found to be corroded and this lead to the incident your claim would probably fail unless you could demonstrate a regular and reasonable inspection and replacement programme.

    A good rule of thumb is to inspect visually each year for corrosion and leaks and to operate all valves as well as a continuity test for all underwater fittings as well as stern gear to anode system. Then every seven years to remove all skin fittings and valves and to inspect internally and externally, if fully satisfied with condition re fit. To be honest if you are having it done commercialy the cost is in the labour so you may as well fit new DZR fittings from a reputable supplier who can demonstrate they are DZR not that they are a yellow metal and probably bronze or DZR as often they are brass.

    If you can demonstrate 7 years all re fitted with DZR and annual inspection you are home and dry ( please excuse the pun).

    The RCD calls for fittings to be good for at least 5 years, brass being much cheaper, but lasts for at least 5 years unless there are other factors involved sometimes a bit longer.

    If they are original replace all fittings with new DZR.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    14,468

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit View Post
    Do you know for certain whether the fittings are Bronze, DZR or brass?
    ...
    If they are original replace all fittings with new DZR.
    Yep, it's all bronze stuff, completely bonded, and in perfect condition upon visual inspection and operation.
    I'm not sure to be willing to remove them all for further check, are you saying that some insurances specifically require that?

    Besides, why do you suggest DZR for replacement?
    My understanding is that bronze is more longlasting, and whenever I should replace something, in principle I'd rather stick to that (or possibly go for plastic instead).
    Fwiw, my previous boat also had bronze everywhere, she's by now 21 years old, and still with original fittings.
    Btw, they were NOT bonded. I understand that also with regard to bonding there are different schools of thought...

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Posts
    29,067

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    Yep, it's all bronze stuff, completely bonded, and in perfect condition upon visual inspection and operation.
    I'm not sure to be willing to remove them all for further check, are you saying that some insurances specifically require that?

    Besides, why do you suggest DZR for replacement?
    My understanding is that bronze is more longlasting, and whenever I should replace something, in principle I'd rather stick to that (or possibly go for plastic instead).
    Fwiw, my previous boat also had bronze everywhere, she's by now 21 years old, and still with original fittings.
    Btw, they were NOT bonded. I understand that also with regard to bonding there are different schools of thought...
    The life of DZR - at least the bodies and fittings - of DZR and bronze are essentially the same. The weak point is the ball valve itself which are often nickel plated brass and the cheap steel handles on both types (although some bronze have bronze handles. Bronze is generally 25%+ more expensive.

    Yes there are different schools of thought on bonding, but the current thoughts from the "experts" such as the specialist manufacturers is that they do not need bonding in GRP or wooden boats. The science and logic of galvanic corrosion supports this view.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    London/Antibes
    Posts
    21,429

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Quote Originally Posted by Tranona View Post
    ... the current thoughts from the "experts" such as the specialist manufacturers is that they do not need bonding in GRP or wooden boats. The science and logic of galvanic corrosion supports this view.
    I don't want to drift the thread so won't make a technical debate here but, just for anyone stumbling across this, many folk hold the opposite view to the above 2 sentences.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Guernsey
    Posts
    2,848

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Quote Originally Posted by MapisM View Post
    Yep, it's all bronze stuff, completely bonded, and in perfect condition upon visual inspection and operation.
    I'm not sure to be willing to remove them all for further check, are you saying that some insurances specifically require that?

    Besides, why do you suggest DZR for replacement?
    My understanding is that bronze is more longlasting, and whenever I should replace something, in principle I'd rather stick to that (or possibly go for plastic instead).
    Fwiw, my previous boat also had bronze everywhere, she's by now 21 years old, and still with original fittings.
    Btw, they were NOT bonded. I understand that also with regard to bonding there are different schools of thought...
    How do you know its bronze?

    Have you undertaken a continuity test to ensure it is all bonded, otherwise you don't know.

    I saw a boat this summer with a good condition anode and very heavily corroded props and scabby rudders, the props are being replaced now with new, 12 months ago they were fine. When the anodes were fitted serrated washers were not fitted giving a poor connection. It only takes a poor connection or a corroded wire to cause system failure.

    Its difficult to get a good selection of bronze fittings and valves these days where as DZR is is available, don't mix.

    Composite fittings such as Trudesign and Marelon are one thing but never fit plastic fittings ( nylon etc) under the waterline.

    I fall into the "bond it" school of thought.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Posts
    14,468

    Default Re: Coppercoat causing corrosion on through hull fittings

    Quote Originally Posted by Bandit View Post
    How do you know its bronze?
    Have you undertaken a continuity test to ensure it is all bonded, otherwise you don't know.
    All fittings are Guidi, which don't even make DZR stuff, afaik.
    Ref. continuity, I admit that I just trusted the pretty thick cables strongly connected everywhere, which I found upon visual inspection.
    I guess it wouldn't hurt making a continuity test as well, though.
    Is it sufficient to cross-check different components with an ohmmeter, or what?

    PS: yup, I did actually mean composite, by "plastic".
    Last edited by MapisM; Today at 06:04.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Find Boats For Sale

to
to