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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Clyde
    Posts
    6,738

    Default Re: Yanmar gm10 won't start

    As mentioned earlier it sounds like the common problem with gm series. If it happens again a jumper from the pos side of the starter switch to the pos connection on the starter solenoid would hopefully start it. This would confirm an electrical problem. Cleaning all connections and the large wiring harness plugs should fix it. It did with mine. Pressing the button on the gear control doesn't disengage the clutch it just allows the engine to be revved without being in gear. Forget the decompression levers if the starter isn't doing anything.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    France
    Posts
    23,410

    Default Re: Yanmar gm10 won't start

    Pull the kill handle up and down a few time to prime the pump.
    Squirt some Start Pilot or engine oil into the air-intake.

    Worked for me. (Volvo 2002)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Clyde
    Posts
    6,738

    Default Re: Yanmar gm10 won't start

    Quote Originally Posted by Sybarite View Post
    Pull the kill handle up and down a few time to prime the pump.
    Squirt some Start Pilot or engine oil into the air-intake.

    Worked for me. (Volvo 2002)
    He says he presses the button and nothing happens so I assumed it's not even turning over.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Solent, UK
    Posts
    4,144

    Default Re: Yanmar gm10 won't start

    Common starting problems with the 1GM10 series engines are:-

    1. Switch. Jap crap circa 1960. There must be better ones on the market, but I haven't found them.

    2. That bloody useless 30 amp fuse and holder in the harness, replace it with something more robust, I had to run a new wire outside the harness to do this...

    3. Mine is currently starting fine (summer and warm weather etc) but it helps to turn it over a few times with the decompressor to get the engine running at a decent RPM before dropping the decompression lever. This is also kinder to your starting battery.

    4. If all else fails, you may need to rewire the back of the panel. Those lights and their associated transponders on the engine (oil pressure, engine temp etc) can and do present problems eventually.

    5. That's fine if it's a simple electrical problem. Mechanical problems do arise and it helps to decoke old engines and pay special attention to the holes in the pre-combustion chamber. I've done two top end overhauls in 15 years and in both cases these were seriously coked up. You may find it impossible to remove the injector and associated gubbins as I did the first time. In this case you need to take the head to a Marine Engineers who may be able to press out the parts for you. In my case the precombustion bit was damaged and I needed a new one, if you're lucky, and it all comes out, you'll still need a new set of copper washers.


    My 1GM10 is now 15 years old
    Grow old disgracefully, it's more fun

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