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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,980

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by SiteSurfer View Post
    Dammit - one thing I should have asked, the copy filter unit looks like it comes with 10mm hose tails, which is a bit big for my 5/16 pipe (8mm) - does any of you fine folks know what the thread size is in the unit so that I can order some 8mm hose tails for it?
    Damn. Iím sorry, I forgot that detail. I recall I had a similar problem and ASAP Supplies (happen to be in Hamble where our boat is) came to the rescue. I think (please donít trust me on this) they were a 3/4Ē screw thread.

    [EDIT:] I find a file note from the time in which I had written: Inlet and outlet threads: M14*1.5mm. Don't know if that was correct. Suggest using a marine fittings outfit when the filter arrives.

    Thereís a loctite product I used to seal the threads. NB you want the version that doesnít degrade in diesel. Itís on board and I donít recall but someone on here, or your local chandlery, will advise.

    Good luck. The ease of filter changing, and the centrifugal water separator, and the ability to see any crud thatís collected, made it a rewarding change.

    BTW, the priming instructions are here: http://www.parker.com/Literature/Rac...ine_Series.pdf
    Last edited by BelleSerene; 12-06-18 at 08:17.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    CONWY
    Posts
    470

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by SiteSurfer View Post
    Dammit - one thing I should have asked, the copy filter unit looks like it comes with 10mm hose tails, which is a bit big for my 5/16 pipe (8mm) - does any of you fine folks know what the thread size is in the unit so that I can order some 8mm hose tails for it?
    Good news on managing to source one. The one I got quoted "Inlet and outlet threads: M14*1.5mm (M14 bolts are supplied)" I kept the ones supplied and changed my pipes to 10mm. I'm currently running on the original filter element supplied but have got the genuine ones now ready to put in. When you use the filter element supplied you have to put the o rings above and below it to make a good seal.

    Having cleaned out the tank by hand as I have a good access panel I agree with the other posters that said a little DIY pump is not going to do much in the way of cleaning. You need vacuum cleaner type suction. My problem wasn't bug though it was rust which you have already fixed by going plastic. I will be following you soon. Good luck with it all.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,980

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveGorst View Post
    Good news on managing to source one. The one I got quoted "Inlet and outlet threads: M14*1.5mm (M14 bolts are supplied)" I kept the ones supplied and changed my pipes to 10mm. I'm currently running on the original filter element supplied but have got the genuine ones now ready to put in. When you use the filter element supplied you have to put the o rings above and below it to make a good seal.
    Don't use the filter element supplied: it's a lousy fit, and doubtless not the best filter anyway.

    Use an original Racor one: Racor 2010TM:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Parker-Ra...t/161823837813

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    934

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Yep, I heeded the collective and have ordered 2 x new original ones. One to do the initial polish (all 25 litres of it) and then another to have as the in-use one.
    I'm almost all there - Amazon and EBay have been delivering fuel hoses, taps, fuel clips, splitters, fuel pump and replacement hose tails all week, only the filter body and filters to come and I almost have a solution!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Caribbean
    Posts
    1,833

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by pmagowan View Post
    The cost is likely to be more than the deisel but why not install a fuel polishing system into the fuel system. All you need is a pipe back to the tank (bypassing the engine) and a pump. You can then circulate the fuel through a filter. Get a double filter system so that you can run off one and have a spare and you then have a permanent fuel polishing system and a spare filter you can simply switch to if one gets blocked.
    In the end of the day though it might be easier just giving everything a good clean, discarding the diesel and starting again with a strong anti-bug dose and new filter. I use a racor filter because it is very easy to change but more expensive than the standard Cav types.
    Many cars have spin on fuel filter heads. Normally a search on Ebay can find a spin on filter head and filter that is a far cheaper option to Racor. I was buying spin on filters for £4 each. Buy them by the dozen for the same price as a single Racor filter.😀

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    934

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    The filter has arrived and I'm checking it out, does anyone know if the plastic ring in the viewing bowl is supposed to be there?

    image.jpg
    Last edited by SiteSurfer; 15-06-18 at 17:41.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,980

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by SiteSurfer View Post
    The filter has arrived and I'm checking it out, does anyone know if the plastic ring in the viewing bowl is supposed to be there?

    image.jpg
    How odd. No, there was none in mine and there's not supposed to be a loose part in the viewing bowl. But I see that ring exists in some of the images here: https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesa...fg-filter.html Presumably they're storing it in there for safe keeping, whatever it is?!

    [Edit:] There seems no sign of it in Racor's seal kit for the 500FG here: http://www.parker.com/literature/Rac...ervice_Kit.pdf
    nor in someone's disassembly pics here: http://www.marshmarine.net/index_17.htm I'd take it out!


    BTW, this is a great article on how the things actually work: http://www.racornews.com/single-post...s-Fuel-Filters
    Last edited by BelleSerene; 15-06-18 at 19:09.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    No fixed abode
    Posts
    2,560

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by SiteSurfer View Post
    The filter has arrived and I'm checking it out, does anyone know if the plastic ring in the viewing bowl is supposed to be there?

    image.jpg
    Be careful, they are very badly made. I know some people on here have used them with success but the ones I received were so badly engineered I sent them straight back. I know of someone who had a pair that were so badly cast that they were drawing in air though the casting.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,980

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hadenough View Post
    Be careful, they are very badly made. I know some people on here have used them with success but the ones I received were so badly engineered I sent them straight back. I know of someone who had a pair that were so badly cast that they were drawing in air though the casting.
    It's a risk to be managed. I followed this forumite's experience [ http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthread...e-Racor-500FG) ]and smoothed off the rough edges of the filter top so it seated well, and replaced the filter and O rings. BTW, his pic shows no red ring either!


  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    934

    Default Re: Practical method to polish diesel / stable door after horse gone.

    Installation in progress and its going ok, however - I narrowed the issue down to a blocked fuel line, removed the pipe from the pickup tube - all clear down the tube, checked tank - squeaky clean - no deposits in the bottom nothing, however ... i then checked the actual fuel line and found a really really odd squidgy object blocking the pipe!

    Any idea what this is - I certainly don't think its diesel bug, looks very weird - mind you, my knowledge of diesel bug is very limited so if it is that - at least I have my answer.

    IMG_4472.jpg
    Last edited by SiteSurfer; 16-06-18 at 18:00.

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