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Thread: My Introduction

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Home: Kent. Boat: Chichester
    Posts
    43,420

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Quote Originally Posted by mu2bdriver View Post
    Hello @VicS...

    Yes, when I remove the hose from the carb inlet and pull the cord I get fuel spurting from the line.

    Correct. If I remove the line from the fuel tank (just downstream of the shutoff) and the line from the carb inlet, I can blow air through the tank end line and it shoots out the carb inlet attachment hose.

    After countless pulls, I got curious about the bowl and how much fuel was in it. I opened the drain valve and fuel drained from it. It was tough to ascertain how much fuel should have drained out of it but it was a steady flow; certainly not dry. If there was sufficient fuel in the bowl and the float was elevated which would have moved the needle valve upward and therefore closed the carb to any further fuel then that would make sense why I could not blow into the line and get any fuel movement. I just don't know how much fuel is enough to get that float moved up and the needle valve moved upward.

    The spring which I replaced hooks around the float pivot arm and outside (below) the float (when viewed from the bottom). The spring does not have enough strength to hold the float up but seems to just help the float to move more smoothly. It's really a tiny spring made of tiny gauge wire. It is fitted correctly based upon other pictures I've seen online and based upon the logic of the operation of the system. I think that the purpose of the needle and the small diameter wire is to smooth out the movements of the float and not have it operate erratically as the float might bounce up and down without it. That last sentence is my conjecture, but suffice to say, I do believe it is installed correctly.

    I believe the spark plug is good. It's properly gapped, and when I remove the plug from the engine but put it in it's harness and pull the engine, I can feel the spark as I hold the plug harness in my hand and when I have a help push the kill switch, I don't feel it.

    When I cleaned the carb, I made particular attention to clean the float and needle areas and they were spotless. I'm thinking that the next step for me will be to remove the air intake (with the carb attached) and try some ether to try to get a pop out of it. I didn't try any starting fluid before because I wanted to clean the carb out first but if I can get it started with ether, I'd be happy to watch the intake area to see how the fuel moved out of the main jet with throttle movements.

    That said, do you know what purpose the hose from the inboard side of the air intake serves? It's the short grey colored line from the inboard side of the black air intake housing to the power head.

    Thank you again.
    You seem to have already covered many of the points I raised

    I might be a good idea to check that the spark will jump a good few mm

    Also check the float setting Normally if the carb is inverted with the float arm just resting on the needle the setting is correct if the top of the float is parallel with the bowl joint face but I would not want to try adjusting it without checking with a service manual first.

    I think the hose you mention is the breather hose #26 here https://www.brownspoint.com/store/pc...il.asp?ID=8928

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Solent, UK
    Posts
    4,610

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Quote Originally Posted by VicS View Post
    Steve66, aka Steve Evans of Evans Marine Services ?

    http://www.ybw.com/forums/member.php?70826-steve66
    Yes, thanks VicS. Just the guy i was thinking of. A pity I can't bookmark the name.
    Grow old disgracefully, it's more fun

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    217

    Default Re: My Introduction

    I would imagine that spring may keep valve from opening when engine laid on its side.
    I could never locate a fuel pump on my Suzuki even though shown on parts diagram. I don't think it exists.
    The engine was also inclined to stall if the throttle was not opened gradually
    I found it much more temperamental to start than my Johnson 3.5 two stroke?
    Can you feel good compression when you pull it over
    Last edited by Billows; 19-11-18 at 18:54.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Gentleman,

    Thank you again everyone. I needed to take a day away from the engine...but I'm back.

    @vics
    Yes, it's the breather. I checked the spark plug this morning and I can get a spark jumping from it when it's removed from the engine and plugged in. I also sprayed some starter fluid into the intake (with the black airbox removed) and I was able to start a small fire from the carburetor so I'm confident I have good spark. That would isolate any spark plug/harness/killswitch issue.

    @Billows
    Yes, I have good resistance on the cord when I pull it. About what I would expect from a four stroke. I don't have a compression tester around here but it feels normal and I don't think (or hope) that a ring went bad.

    @topcat47
    Yes, when I opened the carburetor, I changed the main jet to a 66 and it already had a 34 pilot jet in it. I read that some people were having problems with these smaller diameter openings.

    This morning I decided to tackle it again and I believe I made a good discovery. When I took the carburetor apart and began another cleaning I noticed that on the side nearest the throttle butterfly (opposite the choke side) that there are four tiny pinhole size openings in the body. I originally only saw the two but when I moved the throttle back and forth that's when I discovered the other two. The two I never noticed prior were clogged. What do these four holes do?

    I took a piece of 12 gauge braided copper wire and took an individual strand and worked it through all four holes until I could get it to 'tap' the metal on the other side. I was able to get all four holes cleared. Where to these holes go? I opened up the top of the carb and took the two jets and pilot jet out and when I push the wire through one of those four holes I can't get it to get exposed anywhere. Right now, the carb is taking a cleaning bath while I step away again. I'm going to blow compressed air through it later today but after discovering the clogging of the holes I'm feeling more optimistic than ever.

    As an aside, I called a local marina about the engine and sight unseen he quoted me $450 to clean and rebuild the carb with no guarantees on an outcome.

    Again, thank you all.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Home: Kent. Boat: Chichester
    Posts
    43,420

    Default Re: My Introduction

    The 4 tiny holes are where the fuel air mixture from the idle circuit enters the main air flow. They uncover progressively as you open the throttle from the idle position.

    If 2 of the holes were clogged then there is a good chance that the passage(s) behind them are also clogged.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Well, I cleaned and dried that carburetor better than new, put it all back together, and still no start.

    ETA: Iím going to drop the carb off to a local small engine shop to have the put it in the ultrasonic cleaner.
    Last edited by mu2bdriver; 20-11-18 at 23:39. Reason: ETA:

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Home: Kent. Boat: Chichester
    Posts
    43,420

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Quote Originally Posted by mu2bdriver View Post
    Well, I cleaned and dried that carburetor better than new, put it all back together, and still no start.
    Try spraying some fuel directly into the carb throat. If you can get it to fire and run briefly then it proves that the spark is OK and that you still have a problem with the carb'

    If not then take a further look at the ignition , in particular check with a spark tester that it will jump about 7/16 inch in free air.

    A compression test is beginning to look like a sensible thing to do. Borrow or steal a compression tester from somewhere. (with a 4 stroke the throttle should be wide open to do this)

    Also check the valve clearances.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    963

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Just on the off chance. Does this wee thing have an interlock for oil level ?
    More of a 2 stroke man, but my wee 4 stroke generator wonít fire with low oil.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    963

    Default Re: My Introduction

    Ok, so after reading all, you mention you cannot blow from tank outlet hose to pump/carb, is this still the case ? If the filter is in line here, it might suggest you may have a directional filter (most are). Is it the right way round ? Most have arrows with direction of travel. Just a thought.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Connecticut, USA
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: My Introduction

    @qbhoy
    I don't know if it has an oil level sensor or not but everything I've read on it suggests it does not. I've tried starting it in a bucket on an uneven floor where the oil level jumps all around the sight glass. The filter is a basic in-line filter and before mounting it I made sure I can blow into it from either end without problem. It is non-directional and I have it set up so that the fuel has to pass the exposed filter element to assist with the visual determination that it has to be changed.

    @VicS
    I checked the spark plug again and I get a nice blue spark. Speaking of compression testing, this made me look in another direction and here's a good progress report:

    I decided to remove the valve cover to check on the valves; perhaps the intake was sticking. I would get the exhaust to pop every once in a while so if any of them were sticking, I would assume it was the intake. I open up the valve cover gasket and only the exhaust valve pushrod was connected to the valve rocker arm and cam rocker arm! The intake side pushrod was nowhere to be found (yet). The intake valve was very sticky and I let it soak in Seafoam for a little bit and now it moves smoothly. I took the power head off and lower plastic housing off, drained the oil, and took the oil pan off. Sure enough, sitting there was a pushrod. It did not appear to be damaged, cracked, or otherwise questionable and the valve rocker arm looked fine. I'm guessing that the pushrod just jumped the belled housing of either the valve or cam rocker arm. And this engine has well under ten hours on it. So now I'm just going to put it all back together. The camshaft and crankshaft both have TDC markings so lining them up before putting it all back together should be easier than I was expecting.

    I've felt this feeling before but I"m getting more confident now. My next post will tell me if it's hubris or not...

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