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  1. #181
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Ok guys please stop .. I trying to sort this problem out , to day more test .

    So far two things have come out of this .
    1 lofran agree that my cables are over size . Problem can't be there .

    2 more test to day and I gone tho ever switch and cable length, it's worked out all the voltage drop are mostly over the switches the only drop in the v+ cable over the whole run is .1 from the main master switch to breaker and .2 from breaker to solenoid that a .3 drop over a 10 mts run , unless someone can suggest some thing I don't think I can reduce that considering the 50 mm sq are fine for that distinction .
    I filmed all the reading , so I can sit back and look at them at my own time .
    Engine on 1000 RPM in neutral hauling in chain at the same time 14..3 v drops to 12.37v that a 2 v drop over a 10 second continually running the windlass hauling chain . 120A current .
    That's below lofran 150A say it should be .
    Warning forumite dyslexia near by
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  2. #182
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Quote Originally Posted by dom View Post
    Provided the voltage is kept within the defined parameters usually stamped somewhere on each motor, then yes.

    But go too low or too high and problems can occur. On the low side, as the voltage falls the motor operating at a fixed power output will draw more amps roughly in proportion to the falling voltage. When amps exceed the motor's rating, a dangerous heat build-up can occur within the motor, something a suitably specced breaker is designed to interrupt in a timely manner. Vic has a non-spec breaker, in which light he should be careful to keep the voltage to Lofran's spec, whatever that is. Failure to do this over an extended period of time could damage the motor.
    Don we know by testing the breaker it trips at 160A lofran say there max working current is 150A would you not agree my breaker is within that spec .
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  3. #183
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Quote Originally Posted by vyv_cox View Post
    After stern-to berthing it is imperative to pull the boat using the windlass when recovering the anchor. Those who motor forwards are those who catch others' chains and anchors. Releasing the lines from the wall starts the boat moving, upon which the windlass has an easy time pulling the boat onwards and recovering chain. With wind from astern I will sometimes engage astern in order not to over run the anchor.
    Hi Vyv I sure you agree different circumstances different methods , agree off a quay once the ropes are release the boat tent to go forwards , but at anchor especially if there a bit of wind it needs help .
    I think you agree it's all comment Sence to most of us
    Last edited by sailaboutvic; 19-07-19 at 18:37.
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  4. #184
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Quote Originally Posted by dom View Post
    Trojan 245? Do you have the exact battery name?

    I ask because deep cycle batteries are normally not a good choice in high CCA applications. Bear in mind that excessively low voltages can damage electric motors.
    Don I miss lead you all but suggesting the windlass is worked of my house batteries , it's off the starter battery , but just to test the battery out I connected to the house batteries , I got the same reading as the starter batteries , so that isolated the starter battery .
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  5. #185
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Thanks all for taken a interest , more constructive comment would be help full .
    I not reply to lofran yet , not sure there much I can say , if I tell them I disagree that there breaker is any better then mine , they going to tell me there no more they can help .
    I still think and someone please correct me , as my breaker trips at 160A that as good as it gets .
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  6. #186
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Windlass lofran give for my chain and boat size , only after I laced more then 60 mts of chain they suggest next size up
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  7. #187
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    May 2001
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Quote Originally Posted by sailaboutvic View Post
    Hi Vyv I sure you agree different circumstances different methods , agree off a quay once the ropes are release the boat tent to go forwards , but at anchor especially if there a bit of wind it needs help .
    I think you agree it's all comment Sence to most of us
    Yes, if free anchoring with wind ahead I will give a healthy shunt forwards to get the boat moving.
    Answers to some technical queries at new website http://coxeng.co.uk

  8. #188
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    I've read all the thread and there's one thing that jumps out at me.

    75amp draw on no load. Voltage is 12.8v at that point. So the winch motor is working at 960W on no load?
    In old money that's 1.28hp

    I find that strange. Over a HP to drive a no-load winch?

    How much physical effort is required to work it manually?
    Orrabest
    Duncan

  9. #189
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    Here two small clips of reading taken
    Some how I couldn't post them here so got a friend to post them on YouTube
    These where taken as said 1000rpm in neutral anchor set .windlass pulling the boat forward
    amps and voltages reading
    https://youtu.be/7nEMI_RzUa0

    https://youtu.be/-8V-_S_2mGs
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  10. #190
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    Nov 2011
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    Default Re: Anchor thread with a lesson

    This thread grows like Topsy - have a night off and there are so many posts! - with new revelations

    But Vic you have thrown a new parameter into the mix, which you omitted to mention earlier.

    If I've got it right - you will have a small starter battery for your engine, you start the engine on this battery and then use that same battery to run the windlass, with the engine running. Do you use this battery for anything else?

    We use the starter battery - for starting the engine - nothing else, though we do use it for 2 engines (but when the first engine is started it is run out of gear at 'higher' revs - when we start the second).

    I might have said you are expecting a lot of that poor starter battery.

    But I'm no electrician - so I'll simply raise the question.

    I wonder how your charging system is wired. What size of alternator do you have?

    All the measurements you have been taking have been under perfect conditions, maybe after everything is topped up with a bit of solar.

    When you raise a bit of scrap iron you are demanding a lot of the windlass, the engine revs will be low (unless you are running the engine at high revs out of gear) the battery is also depleted because you used it to start the diesel engine. Your windlass may be a bit underpowered (for your rode anyway - and will certainly underpowered for scrap iron). We don't know - your windlass mechanics might enjoy a bit of attention - you use it 365 and you give no indication you have looked at it previously. There is a question mark over the breaker.

    I think you previous test readings are suspect - unless you made the readings, early in the morning (which I assume would be a typical timing) and take those readings as you would when you retrieve the anchor. So start the engine, run windlass, leave - all in quick order. You should be taking any measurements under this 'sort of regime'. I suspect some of your measurements might be later in the day when you had maybe a bit of solar to help etc etc

    At this point I don't think Lofrans are at fault - or I don't think you can point the finger at them and say its their fault - because.....

    As a start - I would re-wire to the house bank. I would strip the windlass.

    But I would bow to great knowledge.

    Jonathan

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