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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    674

    Default seagull outboard advice

    Ok I bought a seagull outboard as it was cheap and actually looked cool sort of retro goes with my boat. It's a short shaft with blue tank square type.

    Had some issues with it. My biggest concern is the fuel bowl that houses the float has 2 holes in it. So when you tilt engine up fuel poor out all over my tender.if you carry it you get covered in fuel.these holes it looks like are supposed to be there. But surely even in the 70s it could not be designed so poorly to release petrol everywhere. I'm sure lots on here will have experience with these.

    Steveeasy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    New Guiseley
    Posts
    3,250

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by steveeasy View Post
    Ok I bought a seagull outboard as it was cheap and actually looked cool sort of retro goes with my boat. It's a short shaft with blue tank square type.

    Had some issues with it. My biggest concern is the fuel bowl that houses the float has 2 holes in it. So when you tilt engine up fuel poor out all over my tender.if you carry it you get covered in fuel.these holes it looks like are supposed to be there. But surely even in the 70s it could not be designed so poorly to release petrol everywhere. I'm sure lots on here will have experience with these.

    Steveeasy
    There will be some on here who will say "use it as an anchor" or similar, but when running right, they are a great little motor.

    Can't answer your question, but here's a website for info on old Seagulls.

    http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Oxfordshire, Gosport and Wellington New Zealand.
    Posts
    8,016

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    The holes are there to allow atmospheric pressure into the float chamber.

    It is a misunderstanding that fuel is sucked through a carburetor into the inlet port. The carb venturi causes a pressure drop lower than atmospheric pressure. Subsequently, the atmospheric pressure acting on the fuel in the float bowl pushes it through the jets into the incoming air stream where it is atomised.

    So, dont block the holes!

    If it has the Villiers type carb, drain it by removing and tipping the fuel out of the float bowl. You might need a Whitworth spanner-5/16th IIRC.

    Probably still be smelly though.........................................

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Mersea. north Essex
    Posts
    4,826

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    If you turn the fuel supply off (actually by pushing the plunger in) a bit before you reach your destination, then the float chamber will be nearly empty and not much will dribble out.

    Experience will teach you how much before!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Mersea. north Essex
    Posts
    4,826

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    BYW I think they were designed in the 1940s. Like the motor industry, they failed to keep up with changing technology

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Suffolk
    Posts
    5,152

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by davidej View Post
    If you turn the fuel supply off (actually by pushing the plunger in) a bit before you reach your destination, then the float chamber will be nearly empty and not much will dribble out.

    Experience will teach you how much before!
    +1
    It can be quite gratifying to turn off the fuel and have the engine stop just as you come alongside, very irritating if you get it wrong though.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,749

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    As designed. Button on top of carb "tickles" the float, increasing fuel level in bowl for cold starts. Press till some petrol drips out! As others have said turn off fuel before arrival at destination, minimising further spills. Crude machines but the most reliable outboards I've ever owned or used.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    22,426

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    My sailing neighbour had a shoulder replacement a few years ago and can't pull-start a modern outboard. He tried an electric one but it wouldn't do the job, so he now used the lower-compression Seagull. If nothing else, we can hear him coming.
    Far away is near at hand in images of elsewhere

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Home: Kent. Boat: Chichester
    Posts
    43,432

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by steveeasy View Post
    Ok I bought a seagull outboard as it was cheap and actually looked cool sort of retro goes with my boat. It's a short shaft with blue tank square type.

    Had some issues with it. My biggest concern is the fuel bowl that houses the float has 2 holes in it. So when you tilt engine up fuel poor out all over my tender.if you carry it you get covered in fuel.these holes it looks like are supposed to be there. But surely even in the 70s it could not be designed so poorly to release petrol everywhere. I'm sure lots on here will have experience with these.

    Steveeasy
    You lean to deal with it and also to let the water, any remaining petrol and oil which has leaked from the gearbox drain away before loading into the car boot.

    You don't say the exact age but if not already a 25:1 motor it can be converted to run on 25:1 fuel mix by changing the carb needle ( applies to all from 1967 until 1978 when they were all produced as 25:1 motors) Do not be tempted to try 50:1. They don't last long on that. They are a lot less messy on 25:1 than on 10:1

    All you will need to know is on the Saving-old-Seagulls website . Advice also available on the owners forum. Go to John Williams for any parts you may need ... dont be ripped off by e Bay suppliers,

    look after it, its needs are minimal, and it will easily outlast all the far eastern 2 strokes and the 4 strokes by decades.


    Quote Originally Posted by rotrax View Post
    The holes are there to allow atmospheric pressure into the float chamber.

    It is a misunderstanding that fuel is sucked through a carburetor into the inlet port. The carb venturi causes a pressure drop lower than atmospheric pressure. Subsequently, the atmospheric pressure acting on the fuel in the float bowl pushes it through the jets into the incoming air stream where it is atomised.

    So, dont block the holes!

    If it has the Villiers type carb, drain it by removing and tipping the fuel out of the float bowl. You might need a Whitworth spanner-5/16th IIRC.

    Probably still be smelly though.........................................

    Older Villiers carbs , with a metal bowl, did not have evnt holes in the bowl. A vent was incorporated into the tickler button.
    Its only the metal bowls that need a spanner to remove them as they are retained by a caop nut screed onto the bottom of the centrepice


    Quote Originally Posted by davidej View Post
    If you turn the fuel supply off (actually by pushing the plunger in) a bit before you reach your destination, then the float chamber will be nearly empty and not much will dribble out.

    Experience will teach you how much before!
    You can also adjust the idle speed so that it is controlled by raising and lowering the tiller and set it so that at the last moment when coming alongside you can push the tiller down to stso the engine.



    Quote Originally Posted by davidej View Post
    BYW I think they were designed in the 1940s. Like the motor industry, they failed to keep up with changing technology
    The original Marston Seagull started production in 1931. History all on the website.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Carribbean currently Grenada
    Posts
    6,820

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    1934 Maston Seagull still doing the business at age 85. I am not sure my Tohatsu will last that long.



    Mind you it is a noisy little sucker at full chat.
    Monkey patching programmer [retired ]

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