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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Oxfordshire, Gosport and Wellington New Zealand.
    Posts
    8,016

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by VicS View Post
    You lean to deal with it and also to let the water, any remaining petrol and oil which has leaked from the gearbox drain away before loading into the car boot.

    You don't say the exact age but if not already a 25:1 motor it can be converted to run on 25:1 fuel mix by changing the carb needle ( applies to all from 1967 until 1978 when they were all produced as 25:1 motors) Do not be tempted to try 50:1. They don't last long on that. They are a lot less messy on 25:1 than on 10:1

    All you will need to know is on the Saving-old-Seagulls website . Advice also available on the owners forum. Go to John Williams for any parts you may need ... dont be ripped off by e Bay suppliers,

    look after it, its needs are minimal, and it will easily outlast all the far eastern 2 strokes and the 4 strokes by decades.





    Older Villiers carbs , with a metal bowl, did not have evnt holes in the bowl. A vent was incorporated into the tickler button.
    Its only the metal bowls that need a spanner to remove them as they are retained by a caop nut screed onto the bottom of the centrepice




    You can also adjust the idle speed so that it is controlled by raising and lowering the tiller and set it so that at the last moment when coming alongside you can push the tiller down to stso the engine.





    The original Marston Seagull started production in 1931. History all on the website.
    Marston Sunbeam motorcycles were renowned for the quality of their paintwork. This is shown with many pre-war Seagull outboards still having factory paint on their fuel tanks.

    Seagull outboards were used in the Chindit campaign in Burma for crossing wide rivers.

    Reference in John Masters book " The Road Past Mandalay "

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    4,751

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by johnalison View Post
    My sailing neighbour had a shoulder replacement a few years ago and can't pull-start a modern outboard. He tried an electric one but it wouldn't do the job, so he now used the lower-compression Seagull. If nothing else, we can hear him coming.
    They are ludicrously low compression by modern standards: from memory about 6:1. My 40+ absolutely always started first pull, once warm you could often restart it by just grabbing the flywheel and spinning without bothering with the cord. The Century I later had wouldn't do that, but again always started first pull. Except once, when I took it out of storage a few months after buying a more modern outboard that then went wrong. It needed at least three pulls to start it then - throwing a hissy fit at being sidelined.

    Both mine ran on 10:1 mix of cheapest petrol and cheapest straight SAE30 oil, exactly as the makers said. Fairly smoky, cold starts after tickling the carb left a rainbow of oil on the water. Don't run them for hours at low revs, like all two-strokes it gums up the plugs, flat out hour on hour though is fine. Have crossed Channel on a Seagull 40+ pushing about a ton, run full throttle till out of fuel, top up and restart (several times). The quiet when you get there is nice though.

    And the 40+ spent a tide underwater once, washed, dried, oiled and started first pull as usual. Kept and used it years after that.

    Of course I use much newer engines now: but never had anything as reliable.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    677

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    HI,
    It is a 40 Minus F/weight it seams. was difficult to start but runs extremely well. No sign of smoke. Ive been running it on 25/1 two stroke oil. Just a shame it dribbles petrol everywhere. Not sure I can live with that, it will ruin my decks and me trousers.

    Steveeasy

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Southminster, essex
    Posts
    9,233

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by VicS View Post
    . Go to John Williams for any parts you may need ... dont be ripped off by e Bay suppliers,
    I was under the impression that he had retired.
    It is all down to the fact that my wife does not understand me !!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Shropshire
    Posts
    8,830

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    I have a 1965 Featherweight which will run happily on 20:1 but won't go to 25:1 even with a different needle. I'm happy with that though much better than 10:1 - less expensive oil and pollution.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Home: Kent. Boat: Chichester
    Posts
    43,441

    Default Re: seagull outboard advice

    Quote Originally Posted by ghostlymoron View Post
    I have a 1965 Featherweight which will run happily on 20:1 but won't go to 25:1 even with a different needle. I'm happy with that though much better than 10:1 - less expensive oil and pollution.
    Apparently he bearings are different ( smaller ) pre 1967 so probably you wont seal the crankcase properly with less oil in the fuel. Generally advised not to use less anyway with the smaller bearings

    MY 1973 Featherweight needed the needle setting considerably different from the standard setting ( weakened) in order to run without excessive four-stroking

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