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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Cowes
    Posts
    596

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Why don't you ask Beta, they are very helpful. I'm just installing a Beta 43 and I have put in a bigger skin fitting to comply with the 25mm ID minimum. Definitely not something worth skimping on in my view. It would also invalidate the guarantee if it was too small..don't know if that applies to you.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Plymouth
    Posts
    8,586

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Quote Originally Posted by syvictoria View Post
    ....
    I haven't yet contacted Beta. I'm not sure that they'll want to offer too much support this far down the line... and I can't say that I'd blame them.


    I think it is very wise not to contact manufacturers until you have weighed the job up in detail. Getting onto the forum clarifies your ideas, can often solve the problem and may well offer up a few unrelated tips and useful info.
    It also means if you won't be fobbed off with the typical nonsense which is often dished out when you ring up suppliers.

    I have found Beta to be a happy exception to the normal attitude so I think, in the end, it will be well worth a call. Ask about the warranty which (when I last looked) is now up to 5 years. More importantly, I think there is a waiver on engines that are bought, installed but not commissioned for some time; you may find you should have registered in advance but worth asking. I am not suggesting this is a guarantee issue.

    Any road when you have exhausted all else worth a punt.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    476

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Quote Originally Posted by Ohlin Karcher View Post
    Why don't you ask Beta, they are very helpful. I'm just installing a Beta 43 and I have put in a bigger skin fitting to comply with the 25mm ID minimum. Definitely not something worth skimping on in my view. It would also invalidate the guarantee if it was too small..don't know if that applies to you.
    Sorry, I should have clarified that I only have a Beta 25 and, as mentioned previously, a 19mm ID should (according to current spec.) be sufficient. I appreciate that a 1in might be 'better' but space for fitting water strainers, etc. all had to be taken into account when we made the decision to go with 3/4 in.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Milton Keynes, Bucks, UK
    Posts
    590

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    From what you say then it sounds like the seawater circuit is functioning so perhaps the coolant circuit is not working (either blockage in the circuit or the coolant pump (not the seawater one) is not functioning properly). You mentioned a lot of sediment and the block drain tap being blocked, which would be in the coolant circuit. Was the engine new in 2013 or second hand? Sediment is usually from metal corrosion or rubber bits degrading. Insufficient or old antifreeze/inhibitor in your engine would not help if it's been standing there for 6 years with it in the cooling circuit. Pressure flush the coolant circuit and check the coolant pump. I also understand a faulty radiator cap can cause over heating by letting air pockets get into the circuit so maybe the first thing to check. Finally, do you have calorifier running off the engine? Apparently they can cause overheating if the coolant flow through it is not restricted enough (presume it can reduce coolant flow through the block somehow). If you do, can you isolate it to see?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    476

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Quote Originally Posted by neilf39 View Post
    From what you say then it sounds like the seawater circuit is functioning so perhaps the coolant circuit is not working (either blockage in the circuit or the coolant pump (not the seawater one) is not functioning properly). You mentioned a lot of sediment and the block drain tap being blocked, which would be in the coolant circuit. Was the engine new in 2013 or second hand? Sediment is usually from metal corrosion or rubber bits degrading. Insufficient or old antifreeze/inhibitor in your engine would not help if it's been standing there for 6 years with it in the cooling circuit. Pressure flush the coolant circuit and check the coolant pump. I also understand a faulty radiator cap can cause over heating by letting air pockets get into the circuit so maybe the first thing to check. Finally, do you have calorifier running off the engine? Apparently they can cause overheating if the coolant flow through it is not restricted enough (presume it can reduce coolant flow through the block somehow). If you do, can you isolate it to see?
    Thanks for help and suggestions. The engine was new in 2013. We haven't pressure washed the system, but we have flushed through lots of water from various points until everything ran clear. The pressure cap certainly seems to be okay, and no coolant is being expelled via the overflow even when overheating, which I think means that there aren't any air locks/hot spots in the system? Coolant was being expelled in quantities when we did initially have an air lock at the thermostat (before we manually filled the housing and bled the system properly upon refilling with new coolant). All the fluids were new in July, with coolant having again been replaced this week.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    N Kent Coast
    Posts
    4,164

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Would have thought back pressure would only show as an issue with higher rpm.

    If you run it up to max and get near 3600 it would show that there is not an undue load on the engine (eg over propped, foul propped, stiff sterngear etc) - not that this would be at all expected given your circumstances. No idea if too much back pressure will stop the engine from reaching full rpm, but sounds plausible.

    Fresh water circuit - did you get water out of the drain plug at the bottom? Just wonder if there is still a restriction from crud in this part of the circuit (ie the other side of the thermostat).

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    54

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Quote Originally Posted by syvictoria View Post
    Yes, all cleaned. New O-rings fitted.
    When you say "all cleaned", did you take the heat exchanger stack out completely and checked both sides (saltwater and coolant water side) to be clean? Our Beta was overheating and it turned out to be the coolant side of the heat exchanger completely covered in something (probably limescale from filling with tap water). You could only see it, once the tube stack came out of the housing.
    Days bathing it in lime scale remover cleaned it up again. Everything was fine after that.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    SW Scotland
    Posts
    19,645

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Quote Originally Posted by syvictoria View Post
    Hi. Beta Marine used to state that a 1 inch raw water inlet was required to ensure sufficient throughput (although I know some people get away with smaller). The current manual now states that for Beta 10-38, the Seacock Inlet/Seawater Engine Pump Hose I.D minimum is 19 mm. Furthermore, the manual goes on to quote that the sea water flow should be 13 - 14 litres/minute minimum at 1,500 rpm, whereas the older manuals stated 15 L/min.
    Heating 12.5 litres per minutes of water through 60oC takes 52.5kW, which is 70hp. Given that small diesels are typically 33% thermally efficient, I'd expect that flow to be fine for anything up to 35hp of thereabouts.
    "Seamen are always wanting to do things the proper way; and I like to do them my way."

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    476

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    Thanks for the further replies. Yes, the drain plug is unblocked (which took quite some doing!) and the tube stack has been completely removed and it and the housing thoroughly cleaned.

    We've now spoken to Beta and they still suspect a blockage in the freshwater side. We have consequently flushed the whole system through again a further three times today with freshwater, and we've been surprised to find that crud is still periodically being expelled! The last flush came out all but clear and so we have new antifreeze to add again tomorrow. Finger's crossed!

    Thanks for the calculations JumbleDuck. That's reassuring.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    476

    Default Re: Beta raw water inlet size

    A question regarding the coolant drainage tap... Do you (other Beta owners) manage to drain the system completely via the tap? We get about 300ml and then it stops draining. The remaining coolant we have to let out via the front hose and/or pump out via the fill cap. Should we therefore conclude that we still have a blockage at the tap end of the system which needs to cleared? Can anyone confirm how the tap can be accessed from above? We have poked wire in and round the elbow, from below (and water flows freely when poured in the thermostat housing, but not from the heat exchanger) and so there could still be a blockage/sediment above this that we can only clear from the other direction. Surely all 3.25L of coolant should drain out the tap when opened with the filler cap off? I hope that makes sense! Many thanks.
    Last edited by syvictoria; 07-09-19 at 07:17. Reason: Clarification

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