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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Bedfordshire
    Posts
    10

    Default Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Hi,
    I have twin tamd61a and ZF220a gear boxís. my starboard engine and box have been fine no problems at all but the port one has a couple of problems the first being an over heat at high rpm so have changed impeller and thatís not fixed it, so will be striping coolers and exhaust elbow to sort it.
    The second is that on the same engine once started from cold the preheat stays on on the dash panel but the starboard one goes out as soon as engine is running.
    The third and final problem is the port side gear box has what sounds like a noisy bearing, I can only hear it when in forward gear at over 1000 rpm itís not there when in reverse or in neutral, cold this be linked to the first problem and does anyone have any ideas on rebuild cost of the box?
    Ps these problems have been there since I got the boat at Easter.

    Thanks Luke
    Xmas sucks bring on the boating seasson

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Posts
    1,199

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Be careful stripping the cooler housings as they are a bit fragile. I know because I cracked one taking them off. Made of a light alloy from what I recall.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    South Coast
    Posts
    5,265

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    I would check the after cooler and air filter are both clean.

    Have you checked the oil condition in the box. I think there might also be an oil strainer on these. A rumble can also be a worn upper and or lower cutless bearing.
    Interested in Corvettes PM me for details of the Corvette Motorboat Association

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Bedfordshire
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Quote Originally Posted by superheat6k View Post
    I would check the after cooler and air filter are both clean.

    Have you checked the oil condition in the box. I think there might also be an oil strainer on these. A rumble can also be a worn upper and or lower cutless bearing.
    The air filters are new and clean, I donít know what the aftercooler is like but will be giving it a full clean when I strip it down. I did that the top off the heat exchanger to make sure there was no old impeller but it was clear.

    Oil is clean and looks like new.

    The lower cut less bearing was replaced up on purchase on that side. The boat is being lifted in jan so will look at the upper one at that point as I never even considered it could be that.
    Xmas sucks bring on the boating seasson

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Midlands - Worcestershire
    Posts
    528

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Quote Originally Posted by smugglers ride View Post
    Hi,

    The second is that on the same engine once started from cold the preheat stays on on the dash panel but the starboard one goes out as soon as engine is running.

    Thanks Luke

    I think this may be the preheat solenoid fuse which has blown, quite a common issue with this engine. Luckily its a cheap part to replace, see item no 29 (part no. 471477) on the web link below.

    https://www.marinepartseurope.com/en...50-25-645.aspx
    Regards Jon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    South Coast
    Posts
    5,265

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Quote Originally Posted by smugglers ride View Post
    The air filters are new and clean, I donít know what the aftercooler is like but will be giving it a full clean when I strip it down. I did that the top off the heat exchanger to make sure there was no old impeller but it was clear.

    Oil is clean and looks like new.

    The lower cut less bearing was replaced up on purchase on that side. The boat is being lifted in jan so will look at the upper one at that point as I never even considered it could be that.
    Upper cutless bearings are often entirely ignored.

    When I pulled mine on my Turbo 36 they were completely shot, worse than the obviously knackered lowers. But changing them is a shaft out job, so for my current Corvette 32 it is both upper and lower cutless and new shaft seals. I have started a thread on this subject on PBO forum. Got to be one of the worst jobs on a boat IMHO.
    Interested in Corvettes PM me for details of the Corvette Motorboat Association

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Bedfordshire
    Posts
    10

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Thanks for the help next time Iím at the boat I will look at the fuse and test it.
    When the boat is lifted I think I will also do the other cutless bearings before looking at the gear box, there is no history of them being done and pulling the shaft looks quite straight forward on my princess 388

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Medway
    Posts
    20,236

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    Unless your are actively looking for work ?....if the cutlass has no obvious wear or play..no point in replacing. ?
    Grab hold of the prop try to violently move the shaft it up down and sideways in "P" bracket cutlass bearing , if you physically cannot feel any play (or virtually none) leave well alone.
    If you do decide to do the job stick to those with the metal sleeves, have my doubts about the Phenolic/ Plastic version due to some scuttlebutt about them.
    If your gearbox does need some love and attention there is a place in Queenborough who will have a look.
    One of our club members recently had a gearbox in a Prinncess 41 seriously let go, it was cheaper to buy a s/h replacement box from Coastal Rides (£2K) than it was to repair his own faulty gearbox.
    .

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    South Coast
    Posts
    5,265

    Default Re: Tamd61A and ZF220A box

    I pulled all four Cutless bearings today. The lowers were quite OK and likely would have lasted a few more years, but the uppers were completely shot. I expect the lowers have been renewed previously.

    Even with decent access to the gearbox / shaft coupling do not underestimate the task of pulling the shafts. It has taken me ~ 30. hours so far to get the props off, couplings split, half couplings off, shafts out, old gland assemblies off and cutless bearings pulled (both shafts).

    Tools I could not have done this task without ...

    A wide range of normal tools plus: 10 tonne hydraulic gear puller; 3/4" drive socket set with 1.5" AF socket; angle grinder - wirebrush and cutter disc attachments; Dremel; drills; heat gun; reciprocating saw; battery impact wrench; heavy duty steel plate drilled to match the PCD of the output coupling bolt holes; long reach HD sockets; purpose made cutless puller; lots and lots of patience. Indeed without these all of which I now own (although I was running out of the Patience towards the end !), the shafts would still be in position, or simply cut.
    Interested in Corvettes PM me for details of the Corvette Motorboat Association

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