Teak treatment

**cliffb** · 09-08-05, 11:24

Hi all. My external teak is looking like it could do with some TLC (cockpit seats, toe-rail capping and grab rails - no teak deck). There's a plethora of stuff on the market I know. But to choose between them??? I've used Teak Oil before, but not in a marine situation so am unsure how long that would last. Teak Brightener??? What the **** is that??? It sounds like a superficial treatment.
So I'm thinking about using Danish Oil, which I've used on external domestic things before and am very happy with. But again, how does it fair in a marine environment? Does anyone have any experience with Danish Oil or other recommendations? Thanks to all who reply.
PS. It's white Gelcoat surrounding the teak bits, if that makes any difference.

**demonboy** · 09-08-05, 11:31

I'm sure if you did a search there must be loads of posts on teak treatment. Here's what I think though, having recently bought a teak-laid boat.

I've been told to avoid oils and artificial additives. Teak has enough natural oil in it to last the length of time the teak lasts itself. If it's that knackered, perhaps its time to relay new teak decks!

The best product I ever used on my teak was a mild washing up liquid, and I've used Persil on a new Marlow too. Both worked a treat.

I was sold some white powdered teak cleaner here in Turkey and was assured it didn't have any chemicals. When I added it to water it turned a teak colour and ended up dying my decks, which I was really p***ed off about. The gelcoat surrounding did make a difference because as the dyed water drained off, it stained my gelcoat, so be warned.

**AIDY** · 09-08-05, 11:46

Yup from experience dont use anything on the teak. If you must warm water and Milton scrubbing with a washing up scourer across the grain. just done my own and it's come up a treat.

Sertainly don't us oxalic acid or teak oil, teak oils keep the dirt in. If you must use something try Endevour

**ccscott49** · 09-08-05, 11:57

Why not oxalic?
I dont use oil, all my teak is varnished, apart from the aft deck furniture, which is oiled with epifanes teak oil sealer, seems to be standing up very well. But I do agree with most of what has been said, clean it up and leave it, never found any "teak" oil worth anything for full on sea enviroment. I do use oxalic on my decks, once a year, when I scrub then (lightly) across the grain.

**BlueChip** · 09-08-05, 12:05

I have used Oxalic acid for years, it works a treat with minimum effort. Gets rid of the dirt and algae

**brianhumber** · 09-08-05, 15:11

Best treatment IMOP is the traditional way with Oxalic Acid ( the brightner products if you want to pay extra for the label) followed by Teak Oil applications with a far bit of elbow grease added in during the season with top up applications of oil.
Fair bit on these forums on this subject if you search.
Tried other products over the years but nothing matches the traditional elbow grease way.
The old saying nowt for owt applies .

Brian

**brianhumber** · 09-08-05, 15:16

I have tried both with OA and Oil and just scrubbing during a season but I like a warm brown colour if possible so have returned to the OA and Oil way. Depends on how much you time you want to spend on this during the year really.

Bri

**dulcibella** · 09-08-05, 15:38

I find the best way to get rid of green algae on teak decks is to sail a lot and wash decks with seawater, not fresh. It tolerates salt water very poorly.

**chrisc** · 09-08-05, 16:08

We obviously don't have enough salt in the kattegat ,my teak has gone quite green ,i suppose i shall use some sort of anti-bacterial stuff.t

**DeepJoy** · 09-08-05, 22:32

As mentioned by others, there have been a lot of posts about cleaning and treating teak. A lot boils down to your preferences on how you like your teak to look. Grey and weathered without any green is one option, another is back to new teak colour. The latter is my preference, and I have used the Semco system from Onward Trading with very good results. The system consists of a cleaner which is caustic based, a neutraliser, which is acidic, and a sealer which is slightly pigmented to retain the colour. Full details are on the Onward trading web site http://www.onwardtrading.com. Wessex Chemicals do a very similar system too. As others have said, avoid oils, as they can turn the teak black.