Varnish it with your favourite finish and then make a "canvas" condom for it to protect it when you are not using the boat. Finish will last for years and look great, particularly if it is laminated with contrasting strips.
Varnish it with your favourite finish and then make a "canvas" condom for it to protect it when you are not using the boat. Finish will last for years and look great, particularly if it is laminated with contrasting strips.
Varnish it with your favourite finish and then make a "canvas" condom for it to protect it when you are not using the boat. Finish will last for years and look great, particularly if it is laminated with contrasting strips.
Varnish every time. The tiller on our Westerly is laminated and together with a couple of decorative turk's heads ( done by my son) it looks great. I rubbed down to bare wood and applied an epoxy sealing coat (not polyester) before starting the varnish. It provides a tougher finish, bearing in mind that the tiller gets lots of knocks, and does not require so many coats to build to a good and very durable finish.
I have a nice tiller which I varnished using traditional varnish, two years ago. Looks and feels good; however, next time i will use two pack polyurethane for a harder finish. I will not consider oiling the tiller.
Location: 'ang on a mo, I'll just take some bearings
Posts: 17,178
Epifanes Gloss does it for me. Got about eight coats on this winter.
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There are three kinds of people:
Those who learn by reading.
Those who learn by observation.
Those who have to pee on an electric fence for themselves.
I removed the old varnish from the tiller last year and have spent the summer regularly oiling it. I am not that impressed with the finished on it at all and now feel that i should have just varnished it instead. Although it would have probably had to strip it and varnish it again as it would have faded quite badly. I think i shall create a canvas condom too and that will eliminate the problem.
The grab rails however look rather good oiled and wont be getting any varnish treatment.
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Somewhere between reality and fantasy......
As a professional varnisher I am obviously biased but
I always thought oil was something to put on masts.
With varnish there are 2 approaches once you have clean,dry bare wood.
First the traditional way: Epifanes, aim for 20 coats and only grudgingly settle for less.
Second the new technology way: Seal the bare wood with 4 coats of
Sicomin Wood Impreg 120 ( a clear,epoxy primer with a bit of flexibility).
Then apply 5-10 coats of Seatop PU360 UVR ( UV resistant poyurethane varnish).
Both methods will produce a shiny, glossy look that will not fade.
The second approach will give you fantastic resistance to dinks; no need to go back to barewood, repairs are simple as water never gets back to the bare wood.
Shouldn't be telling you all this as you won't need to employ me now
Cheers,
Chris
hello
if its a class job you want,i'd put 15 or more epifanes wood finish on and a couple of epifanes clear coat to finish off.nice and easy to apply,but takes a while to go off (in england anyway,jesus!). thats from bare wood.
a much quicker way would be to use awlbright 2-part stuff.
both epifanes and awl grip products are exspensive though.i'de deffo vouch for epifanes.
finish off with a nice piece of leather and a couple o turks heads!
all the best
actually, i'de throw caution to the wind on this one and say oil it. D1 it.wrap some cotton clotha round the whole thing(bare wood) and soak that stuff(D1) in every hour for 4-5 coats then unwrap it and leave it to dry.sand it and keep puttin coats on till the required finish.
this stuffs much more easy to maintain if you 'ding' it cos its soaked further into the grain.thats why alot of big wooden boats use it on the mast,cos there always getting 'dinged' and there a bugger to maintain.
finish off wiv the leather n turks heads.
covers are always good.(if they fit properly!)
Varnish every time. The tiller on our Westerly is laminated and together with a couple of decorative turk's heads ( done by my son) it looks great. I rubbed down to bare wood and applied an epoxy sealing coat (not polyester) before starting the varnish. It provides a tougher finish, bearing in mind that the tiller gets lots of knocks, and does not require so many coats to build to a good and very durable finish.
Well I've had the boat over 10 yrs and tiller still looks like this ... never recoated ..
My Beneteau tiller is teak which, over the course of the year turns the usual gray colour. What do you recommend for this type of tiller, oil or varnish. If varnish which is the best to use?.
My Beneteau also has a teak tiller. I oil mine, infrequently. It's grey mostly; like the owner. I don't think varnish would be successful now the wood has been oiled. But perhaps someone has a view on that?
It all depends on what result you are looking for.
If you are prepared to invest the time & money for perfection
then take back to bare wood & with a final 220 grit sand.
Having been oiled will not be a problem.
Then use Sicomin wood Impreg120 and polyurethane varnish as in my post above.
If you look at your costs then over a 5 year period I think
you will find that you have saved time and money.
Cheers,
Chris
varnish or oil the tiller?
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