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British Virgin Islands: What the crew thought Back to British Virgin Islands main page
The British Virgin Isles
To some yachtsman, the thought of owning a catamaran is just a distant dream, mainly because of the overall cost and problems of berthing space. However, a cat charter provides a realistic opportunity of sampling a slice of that dream, or, simply having a go for that matter. Better still, you could go on a Moorings flotilla charter in the British virgin Islands on board one of their Robertson and Caine 45ft catamarans.

PBO featured such a charter in the March 2003 issue, and although the skipper was an experienced and knowledgeable cat sailer, for the rest of the crew it was a first time experience to sail and live on board a cat. Alastair Garrod, Gill Tolen, Jane Scott and partner Chris Smith share their thoughts and first impressions of this unique charter in paradise.

Alastair Garrod PBO editorial staff, sailed nothing but 30-40ft mono hulls all his life and since starting to sail in the early 70s has never given catamarans a second glance till now.


The Cat
After a week on board a modern cat, you realise that the advantages they offer outweigh those of a monohull by some considerable margin. As you might expect from a cat, the central accommodation span housed an enormous saloon with a galley comparable to a modern 2 bedroom house. In addition, the saloon had one large central dining and seating circle which in a fashion was also repeated in the cockpit. In contrast to a monohull, the cockpit and saloon shared a common level, leaving you to effortlessly waft through from one to the other via a set of sliding French windows. Such a feature made both the saloon and the cockpit behave almost as one unit. In the sleeping cabins, the double bunks were noticeably high up. This is because they were too big to fit within the narrow internal hull mouldings so they’re positioned high within the coach roof moulding, and of course, a high bunk meant a large void beneath for locker space and storage. A decent sized cat like this could boast four independent double cabins at each quarter, and each with separate en suit heads and showers. This meant total privacy and independence for say four couples or two average families - something a monohull of equal size could never achieve.

Under sail, the first noticeable thing that impresses you is the incredible turn of speed as soon as the wind catches the sails, and then the speed itself. I found we averaged 10 to 12 knots, and compared to monohull performances, it made the scale of the charts seem much smaller as we soaked up the distances in a relatively short time. The motion of a cat is much shorter and sharper and when working up on the foredeck I often found my self resorting to be on all fours since my body gyroscope couldn’t read or anticipate a boats motion. When sailing mono hulls, its impressed upon you to stow items securely away, especially valuables like cameras. Stupidly, sheer habit drove me to stow my camera equipment below after taking a picture, despite the fact that a free standing vase of flowers remained on the saloon table for the entire week! At times you needed to remind yourself that cats don’t heel over!

The BVIs
The variety of scenery within this small group of islands perhaps makes them the most beautiful and diverse group of islands in the entire Caribbean. From the tropical lush green high ground of Tortola to the 28ft high strip of sand making up Anegaga, and then there’s the rock boulders of the Baths to the wind swept beaches of Jost van Dyke. The islands are surrounded by a relatively kind sea that makes them suitable nursery grounds for flotilla charters and idyllic for swimming and snorkelling. All these attributes mean one thing - tourism! and most of the islanders try to cash in on it which regrettably, makes the BVIs (like most of the Caribbean) very expensive. Much of this expense is due to almost everything having to be imported and the rather more liberal spending power of our American cousins. The Moorings is a top rate professional outfit with a superbly maintained and prepared fleet of yachts and there’s very little to fault them. The staff are friendly, helpful, charming and come across as highly professional individuals. If you wanted to niggle, nothing is for free and there’s a charge for almost everything. After a long flight getting their, you really could do with a free welcome starter pack to settle you in for the first night. But, with Moorings you’ve got to pre order and pay for it. For most people such a charter holiday like this will be a once in a blue moon experience. But was it all worth it, was it good value for money? To answer this you would have to personally asses the values of a good holiday. For me its memories. In my life time I’ve been on many holidays and charters and most have drifted away from my mind, but the memories of this Moorings BVI charter is an experience I shall never forget and too me that’s good value for money, despite the cost.

Jane Scott and partner Chris Smith.
Jane is PBO’s Advertising Sales Executive and both herself and partner Chris, are currently looking into purchasing a boat. Or are they? After this charter, will they now consider downsizing the boat of their dreams and share their enthusiasm for sailing with the odd charter every year?


Jane Scott
My sailing experience has been limited to monohulls, so booking a holiday on a catamaran was going to be interesting.

Upon our arrival at the Moorings BVI base at Tortola we boarded Aspen Dreamin' our 45ft Robertson & Caine catamaran, I was amazed at its sheer size. Four large double cabins all with ensuite heads, plenty or storage and an immense amount of headroom. The kitchen area was fantastic, all 'mod cons' included - chest freezer, fridge, double sink, four-burner stove, oven and all the kitchen utensils you could desire. Plenty of indoor and outdoor dining areas and still room to sunbathe not forgetting the two huge trampettes at the front! This was unadulterated luxury compared with my previous experiences on monohulls.

The BVI's were beautiful - the scenery was breathtaking - something I had only seen in holiday brochures. With white beaches and crystal clear seas I had truly found paradise. Our days were spent 'flying' across the open ocean. The winds never dropped and the sun shone constantly. We put Aspen Dreamin' to the test easily reaching 12 knots. Each day we met our flotilla at a pre-arranged lunch spot and evening mooring. I was surprised that there were no marinas in the BVI's so we dropped anchor each night - a skill we mastered to perfection by the end of our week. We snorkelled alongside turtles, tropical fish and bravely with a barracuda! I totally unwound and enjoyed exploring the beauty of the BVI's.

Living costs were quite expensive and the local cuisine was average but this didn't matter when we were enjoying one of the best holidays of my life. Cost wise it compares favourably with a Caribbean hotel/beach holiday and is suitable for families with young children, couples and groups.

One day soon I hope to visit paradise again!

Chris Smith
Mono or Multi? One of sailing°s dilemmas. Prior to our BVI holiday, my recent experience had been fairly evenly split; a week between Anglesey and the Scillies on a 1970's 27ft Telstar trimaran owned for many years by my elder brother Paul, and 5 days around Poole and the Solent on a 1980's Sadler 34ft for my Day Skipper practical. I am now looking at buying my own sailing boat, but what sort? I had sought much advice, but opinions are polarised between, "My legs are the same length so I don't want to travel everywhere leaning over" and "Multihulls can't point, and just aren't proper sailing boats." Of the two mentioned, the Sadler would have to win, the Tri being particularly compact below, but the BVI's was going to be the decider; aboard a modern catamaran amongst a fleet of modern monohulls and other cats.

At 45ft long, any cruising boat is going to have a reasonable amount of room, but the Moorings 45 catamaran is huge; four large double cabins with en suite heads and showers, a kitchen (galley implies cosy) larger than my own at home with full size sinks, hob, oven, fridge and separate chest freezer, a saloon area to seat eight comfortably, a cockpit you could hold cocktail parties in, and lots and lots of deck area and trampolines for doing very little on. With two 56hp engines to push you along or simply charge the batteries we were certainly well catered for.

The compromise surely had to be sailing performance or certainly looks. The monohulls in the flotilla, particularly the longer yachts, look sleek and purposeful, capable of slicing through water and air. Our catamaran looked more like a fortress; they are just so very different.

Pushing such an inventory along demands a big rig. Conventionally laid out with furling genoa and main with lazy jack stowage things are as you expect them to be, but the forces involved are somewhat greater. Raising the main from the bottom of the mast was a two-man job, preferably big men at that. Once up, there are plenty of winches and cleats for trimming, but with such large sails and constant strong winds get it wrong and you can remove the skin from the palms of your hands. I have proof.

The British Virgin Isles are sailing heaven. Breathtaking anchorages separated by deep blue seas with constant 20-knot trade winds; it doesn't get any better. The cats are well suited to this kind of sailing with plenty of room to manoeuvre in and out of bays and very little traffic between the well spread out islands. The Hamble could be a bit different. At the flotilla briefing each morning, the monohulls were often recommended to put a reef in due to the strong winds but the cats were just told to get it up and get out there! Sat on the windward bow, with both sails up and beating along at around 12+ knots, you could really feel the power transmitted from the sails as she pushed through each wave, never remotely feeling unsafe or over pressed.

The penultimate day of the holiday was spent in a fun race for all of the flotilla fleet, around and between various islands in various directions to the wind. Despite all starting together, it quickly became apparent that this was two races, multi's and mono's. All of the catamarans were well ahead of the monohull fleet and remained so, upwind or down.

So are multihulls better? From my little experience they are faster, roomier, and more comfortable. They aren't suited for racing around the cans or pottering around the Solent, but if anyone has a Moorings 45 or even a Fontaine Pajout they want rid of, preferably moored in the BVI's, I am your man!! I shall keep looking and hoping.

Gill Tolen.
Works in the travel industry and has never sailed or set foot on a yacht before.
Was this charter a gentle baptism of fire into the leisure of sailing? Will Gill trade in her beach sandals for a pair of decks shoes from now on.


Having never sailed before the thought of spending a weeks holiday on a sail boat was an exciting yet daunting prospect, although the idea of doing this in the British Virgin Islands made it seem much more of an attractive proposition. The catamaran was far more spacious and well equipped than I had imagined, and was more than adequate for the 5 of us on board with all modern facilities - private bathroom, well equipped cooking area and plenty of dining space - my only concern was how to dry my hair - (but even a solution to that one was found). The days were spent sailing with the flotilla to set destinations, after learning not to go below deck during this, I soon learnt how to avoid the sea sickness. I really enjoyed this time and found the experience totally relaxing - sunbathing, swimming and enjoying the fantastic scenery in the BVI's - even learning some basic sailing skills from the crew made this a refreshing change to a beach holiday.

The BVI's itself had some of the most breath taking scenery I had seen and really reflected the ideal picture of paradise that you only ever expect to see in photographs. The living costs for food & drink were expensive and the standard of meals in restaurants was only average, however eating your meals in the open air and then dancing on the sand in the moonlight somehow seem to make it all pale into insignificance.

My only disappointment to this holiday was the disposal of raw sewerage into the areas you had moored, and I found this quite disgusting and it did deter me from swimming.

Overall this holiday was a fantastic experience and I would certainly do it again, it is suitable for all different types of people but best done in my opinion as a group, The cost for a week was not expensive compared to an all inclusive package beach holiday to the Caribbean and it was well worth it for the experience and a great way of travelling around to visit other destinations. Life on the ocean wave is something I will definitely be considering for my holiday next year.
 
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